I picked up a D4R83 dizzy for $65 today from a wreckers. He even threw in a 2nd WORKING vacuum advance diaphram for nothing.... This one is for my roadster.... It fits the block perfectly - unbelieveable!!!!

He didnt have any D4R85's in stock at all though... I need one for the 1380...

Might go to "U-Pull-It" on the weekend and 'av a go....

I noticed the cap on the D4R83 is VERY close to the morris grille - could be a problem if it wears thru the spark leads.... i might need to put spacers behind the grille screws to step it out a bit.....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Use 90* angle leads, and put spacers behind the grille if you need to.

Try the auto dizzy (has 16* advance)- if too much advance, strip it and weld/file the stops. I find the manual one (with 12* advance stop) is ideal for my 1310.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think 90* leads on all Mini caps sould be mandatory and lead to be as short as possible, no rub no problems

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I went to the northern "U-Pull-It" on Monday and I think I got the last D4R85.
I've done the mod but the car won't start but I was having starting problems beforehand.I certainly have spark so it looks like a busy weekend of fault finding.

Have you ever driven a Mini in the rain? - guess not we havent had any for ........ so long I can't remember

I'll start a list
Minis don't like wet feet ( or distributors)
The points need constant attention
WD40 starts to cost as much as fuel

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

nice one.

I found the grille was not a problem, but the sharp edge of the bonnet slam panel rubbed against the leads. A couple of plastic plug lead holders from Supa-Cheap neatened things up and kept the leads away from the slam panel.

If you are having problems starting after the conversion:

a) Check you have moved the dizzy drive shaft (in the block) so the dizzy body can be positioned where the rotor arm can fire the number 1 lead. It might take some experimenting. Use a test lamp to static time the engine before trying to start it.

b) Check the LT leads from Dizzy to Coil. Mine was blue to -ve on coil and black to +ve on coil or something weird like that! Get it the wrong way around and the car will not start.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

All the Pulsar ones I did have blue wire to -ve terminal.

A few other good reasons for this conversion-
1. Fatter spark- as you can run .040" plug gaps- maybe better economy?
2. The bearings are not worn like all the Lucas ones I own or have seen
3. The rotor actually springs back to zero advance when released- the advance curve is consistent
4. The cap has a decent seal to the body

I had a 45D Lucas on mine with a Pertronix in it. The motor is now much smoother since I put the Pulsar dizzy on, even at the same max advance point (which I will not divulge lest you lot recoil in horror..)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Make sure the drive dog is on the right way round... Even the pro's can make that mistake eh kav?

G

Wot can I say? It must've been getting dark...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

do these come out of the same model as the ones for the alternator?

Not sure- all the alts were gone already, when we grabbed the dizzies...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i found a couple more from a wrecker in greenarcre... There readily available from a few wreckers around sydney for about 120-140 bucks, u have to hunt to get them cheaper, i thik most of the bargains have been had round my area.... most of these im getting are auto dizzy's so i think ill convert them all to morelike the manual one.... One Nissan specialist told me people modifying older pulsars use the dizzy's too, they bolt straight into the model before (ie, the one with points), thats why there a bit thin on the ground and some wreckers/2nd hand parts dealers charge what they charge, ofcourse i told him the dizzy's were wasted on shitty old pulsars and belonged in mini's

G

Question on fitting:

I assume that provided the flywheel is at TDC, #1 cylinder at top of stroke distributor installed with rotor button pointed in general direction of #1 cylinder the actual body of the distributor can be rotated so any plug lead socket can then be disignated #1?

I ask as with the dizzy fitted with vac advance to the right (faceing car) as Lucus dizzy. the the dizzy cap has the lead marked #1 at the bottom I can rotate the dizzy body 180
and put the vac advance down onto the starter motor and the rotor button now points at # marking on cap - is this OK?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

On mine (and most with Lucas dizzy drive gear shaft fitted properly) the #1 cylinder is about 1-2 o'clock.

Sounds like yours has the drive gear shaft 180* out.

TCD firing #1, the key part on the driveshaft is below centre and pointing to around 2 o'ckock.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.