Wombat,
`Right' curve for most Minis (being a bit general here, I know) is around 10*.
There is really not much difference between an 83 and an 85 dizzy, most 85s I've found seem to have a 15* plate and the 83 I'm doing now has a 14.5* one, with a much greater offset angle in the (shorter) slots.

To get about 10* dizzy advance with these-
D4R85- shorten the outer end of both slots by 2.0mm.
D4R83- shorten the outer end of both slots by 1.5mm.

Note- the advance plates are hardened steel. I have found if I TIG weld the slot with 316L S/S and let cool, the deposit is soft enough to file or mill.If you MIG it with normal steel wire it WILL go hard, and will need to be ground out.

NOTE:
Info I found on a website (which now seems gone) that the 85 had 12* and the 83 16* seems a bit erroneous, for Oz cars anyway. If you have an 83 dizzy, mod the plate, don't trade up to an 85.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's not quite right there kev... The plate that you have there has been modified for Ben's turbo By Graham and has a slightly different curve.

Graham Russell did my plate and modified my dissy. There needs to be modifications to the spring as well as and welding/cutting and grinding the slot is not a case of "remove this much" but a case of "make it a total of this long". Also the radius of the slot is important too.

Graham has asked me to tell you all that he will mod your dissy for you for an Ausmini special price that is a fraction of the price he normally charges, as he wants to help all of Ausmini out. Give him a call on 02 9630 2195.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks Chong - Just sent the cam down to be made into RE13 so I'll send the dizzy down and they both can come back together

Does Graham keep regular hours? - he's a hard man to catch on the phone. or can't he hear it above the noise

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

He's on regular hours, but note that he is out and about sometimes buying parts etc. When you call him, try to leave the phone rining for a long time as he has to sometimes turn off machinery, take off gearm run from the otherside of the workshop to get to the phone

The phone is audible believe me

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Chong,
I've done a couple now, and my dimensions above are correct for 10* with the plates I said.
I'm not talking about Ben's modified plate that's now in mine... :lol:

BTW the 2 slots in these plates are not exactly the same length. One of the D4R85 slots is 10.3mm and the other is 10.7, the slot is 5.0mm wide with a 2.5mm radius at outer end. I make them each exactly 2.0mm shorter at 8.3 and 8.7mm.. WELD THE OUTER END OF SLOTS ONLY.

The D4R83 plate slots are shorter and angled more, I make both 1.5mm shorter to get 10* advance, as they have a much bigger offset angle.
For a D4R83 with the slot lengths of 8.9 and 9.3mm, I make them exactly 1.5mm shorter at 7.4 and 7.8mm.
<edit>
NOTE there is another advance plate in some of these D4R83s, it's marked +15 and 14.5. It has less of a slot angle than the one above. Slot lengths here are 9.5 and 9.8mm. Make these both 1.75mm shorter to get 10*. Lengths will then be 7.75 and 8.05mm.

Precision is needed for this work, don't attempt it if you don't have the skills.

I don't touch the springs, full advance comes in soon enough.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Kev,

How did you work out all those details??... I am pretty crap with such small measurements.
Are you modding them for people now?
How much $$ ?

I put in an 85 in Zippy and blew my motor (as you know ) really makes me wonder if modding the curve would have had the same consequences or not

Peter.

PS: What alternatives are there to a pulsar dizzy if you want electronic (ie/ get rid of points?)

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Graham Russell quoted me $30 as Ausmini special price (normally $100)
very generous of him me thinks.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

god that man is great. so so so so so generous. I think it would almost
impossible to find anyone in the mini scene as generous as that.... bearing
in mind he also has a business to run.

Peter, PM sent.

A good alternative to a Pulsar is fit a Pertronix ignitor to your Lucas.
These are available here- but exxy, a bit cheaper at Minispares UK but cheapest I've found is here- http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm
Note prices are in US$. takes a week to your door via post.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

To anybody contemplating fitting a Nissan Pulsar N12 (also Holden Astra) D4R85 or D4R83 dizzy to a Mini, I suggest that you strip it, clean it, and grease the shaft/bushes/advance mechanism with Castrol HTB grease or equivalent.
You just don't know how long it's been sitting in that wrecking yard, it may or may not still have functional grease in it.

Limiting the advance curve to 10* to better suit a Mini is a good idea whilst it's apart, contact Graham Russell or see the details above....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

went n got my self a D4R85 but the coil wasn't there...
spoke to the bloke n he said all elec coils are the same.
so i took a guage n tested a dozen or so n they all had about 0.5 or there abouts ohm. and the ones that said they need a resistor had even less
so i went n checked the bosch one on my mini n that came back with about 0.5 aswell.

is there something wrong with my guage?
will any 12v elec coil do?

cheers James

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'75 windowless van
~LOLA~

well, Pulsars ran a 1.5 ohm (a.k.a `use with resistor') coil, and NO resistor- but will work with a 3 ohm one (these all have 12V stamped on bottom).

I reckon your gauge/meter is faulty.

normal 12V coils are 3.0 ohm,
`use with resistor' coils are 1.5 ohm,
some coils for electronic ignition are around 1.0 ohm. Don't use these on a Pulsar dizzy.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev

speaking to Graham about this last time i was there, he was whinging that someone had fitted a couple of extra mini springs to one he was modifying. we thought it was a bit odd that someone would have tried that, but they were from someone in QLD. when i pulled my D4R83 apart to lean and regrease (got it from Ben) sure enough there were double springs fitted. Perhaps 83s have extra springs fitted? I think all Graham did was remove the inner of the pair of springs, but when he does mine i'll confirm...

cheers
michael

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

(bump)

just picked up a D4R83...


written on mine is D4r83-39 ? ?
has anyone spoken to GR lately about this conversion and whether he still does them....

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I've stripped and rebuilt over a dozen D4R83s and 85s, all had the standard 2 Hitachi springs.
With these springs max advance is all in by 4000 or a bit sooner, which is what you want.
83s and 85s both appear to have the same weights and springs, but there are 3 different types of advance plate slots in the top plate.
All the ones I've seen had 14.5 or 15* advance plates. The (now AWOL) website that said an 85 had 12* advance appears to be wrong.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.