I am now the proud owner of a brand spanking new 13 row oil cooler. So Should I fit it in or not?

I checked under the bonnet and infront of the grille and it looks like I have absolutely no room! With that massive Pulsar alternator I can't put it into it's traditional spot under the alternator. Looks like if I really tried I could get it in there but I want to know if it's worth it?

My 1100 is running half way hot all the time and sometimes gets even hotter (testament to my driving ) am I also thinking about putting in a webber 40 so the added hp might make it run even hotter?

Or should I just save it for a 1275?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

All I can say is that saving for a 1275 isn't going to fix your cooling problem. If you put a 1275 in then you need a radiator and oil cooler to suit if you are more than half serious.

Whether or not it is worth putting an oil cooler in is a tricky question, for a stockish 1098, especially in a round nose! My mates 1098+20 mini with cam and weber is in need of an oil cooler as the pressure tends to drop when it gets hot. Mine on the other hand (1098+20 with dellorto) keeps pressure at 60psi almost all the time (except idling of course). As you've already got one though, I'd go for it, make some room somehow. The dizzy is in the way anyway so I guess you can find a way around it.

Sorry just reread your post - save IT for a 1275 - yeah that may be the way to go. But still you'll need a bigger radiator (Cooper S). Damn gotta read the post right the first time.....

Anto.

Cooper S and Deluxe got the same rad in Oz- 3 core with 16 gills/inch. Just add a MiniMatic fresh air heater and it'll never overheat...

Your cooler WILL fit- the alternator isn't the problem, the front brace is. Needs cutting and welding in on an angle (like mine.. )

But it's a waste of time on a 1098- save it for when you get a big mutha 1275 or bigger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

LOL thanks for the advice Anto... My pressure does drop below half (I dunno how many PSI that is but it's half way on the stock delux smiths gauge?) when it's hot...

Wait till i chuck i a webber/delorto first and then I'll decide...

Hey Kev, did I ever tell you that you're a legend? well you are!!!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I didn't realise the radiators were the same - I distinctly remember somebody trying to sell me a Cooper S radiator to upgrade the 'poxy' one that I have.... guess I shouldn't bother then!

Would there be any point running another heater matrix in the engine bay, in series with the fresh air heater (coz I can't think of another way to hook them both up at once)? The problem I can see is that if the matrix in the engine bay is cooled then the interior heater wont work very well, and also surely if you just turn the interior heater on it would help cool the engine just as much.

From memory on most common Smiths oil gauges the middle is 50psi, that's pretty good. If you don't drop much below that when driving I wouldn't be too concerned.

Anto.

The matrix in the engine bay make a lot of difference. That's why mine never overheats...

What you could do is hook them in series, and in winter just block off the matrix with a piece of cardboard or plastic. Then you will still get hot air in the car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I've lined up one of those deluxe heaters that sit where the booster *should* go if I hadn't removed it. I recall it had a flap in it so you could block off flow. I want something to fill up that 'hole' in the engine bay but my interior heater works better

That's a MiniMatic heater same as mine. The flap doesn't stop air flow thru the matrix- it directs it into the car or into the engine bay. Air goes thru the matrix regardless.
Mine's got the air duct into car with a bilge blower in it, it does keep you warm, sort-of..

Hey what if you hook the air duct from it to the inlet of your existing heater- then you got an `afterburner'!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Aah so that flap directs all the warm air towards the carby! That's a good thing, right?

It only does that in summer...
Hey, it can't make much difference- nobody has caught and passed mine yet, including a certain 998 turbo from Gosford...
Anyhow the airflow is pretty miserable.


<edit> BTW there's a fresh air duct in the back of the heater too, so the flap control will give you no air-cool air- warm air to cabin.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I'd like to duct some fresh air to the carby, but have you seen how much the ducting costs!? I'm thinking though that it is more important to get a real inlet manifold, work the 202 and put the cam in, then get it tuned. If only I had time, and money, my car would go heaps faster!

On a road Mini, ducting air to the carb makes FA difference. Unlike most cars, the air comes in the front cold, it doesn't go thru the radiator first.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

wrx type bonnet scoop ???
due to the limited under bonnet area
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

And there is the problems of carby ice to remember as well!
On a recent trip to Penrith I had the throttle stick open near the Shell servos on the freeway near Exeter. It was the butterfly shafts frozen!
When I got to Penrith the car was running rough and when I opened the bonnet the carbs were covered in ice!

Who needs cold air!