As some of you know I'm currently running a 998 smog head temporarily, as I plan on (eventually) rebuilding my 12G202 head. However, the smog head is much more smokey than the old 202, I've calculated 1/2 a pint per day, most of that in the morning when I first start up (I fill the front yard up with smoke!)

I was going to wait until I had some money and get my 202 fully recoed, ported, maybe convert to unleaded etc. I'm just a little concerned about ruining the bottom end of my motor because of the crap head. If I wanted to wash my rings, I'd use warm soapy water, not oil!

What are peoples thoughts? I'm wondering if I should get my 202 crack tested and shove some new valve stem seals on, and put it back on for the moment, since I'm not going to have the cash to rebuild it the way I want it until the end of the year (ie once uni finishes).

Anto.

Smokey and the Bandit eh?

Probably just the valve guides are stuffed or the seals are gone hard.
Leave it alone until yours goes back on.

BTW, you can fit 1275 seals to the 998/1098 guides- even without the groove on the guide they seem to stay in place. But if you fit new guides they should have a groove anyway.

<edit> bit of oil won't hurt it- it's good upper cylinder lube...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I find I get alot of smoke next morning after thrashing her too hard the day before... morale of the story, don't thrash her too hard

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Well I put new spring type seals on since I had some laying round anyway. I did find myself wondering if we somehow stuffed a guide when lapping in the new exhaust valve, since when I checked the plugs, the fourth one was very black, yet the first was white (replaced the exhaust valve on fourth cylinder). I've since colourtuned it, turns out it was running too rich (orange flame), and the flame goes orange on progression (where it was flatspotting). I thought I was running lean and it was leaning out on progression! This also demonstrates how futile reading spark plugs can be - only works if your engine doesn't burn oil at all!

It's kinda cool how if I coast down a hill I can create a smoke screen that would make James Bond envious

68Delux - I thrash my car all the time. It's an addiction! I've spent the last few rainy days testing my hand brake adjustment.....

Anto.

hehehe you're not the only one addicted

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Did you scrape all the carbon off the piston heads? Folklore says `this will make it blow smoke until the carbon layer is restored'.
I'm not commenting either way...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There wasn't much carbon on top of the cylinders anyway, I basically gave it a wipe down (since I wanted to read what was written on the pistons), but I didn't go nuts or anything. That could be the problem, it doesn't seem to be 'as' smokey now but is still pretty bad. We'll see how it goes, at the moment I'm planning what to do with my 12G202 - so far the plan involves skimming, new guides, recut the valves (maybe go bigger inlet), unleaded exhaust inserts, and some port work to round it off.

On the matter of valve springs, what are the symptoms of valve bounce? I've never experienced it before so I'm not sure what it's like, or for that matter whether my car does it or not! Definately the 12G202 will receive double springs.

Anto.

Valve bounce will happen with old single springs at anything from 5K up. It's just a clatter- you will hear it, about when acceleration stops.....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Okay then I get valve bounce at 5,500rpm! I hadn't even considered valve bounce till last night when Christoph was taking the double springs out of the 295 and it looked hard - the single springs in the smog head didn't require much effort to compress! My 12G202 head also valve bounced, but not till around 6000rpm.

I'd buy a nice set of doubles. $60 at Karcraft.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes with double springs it shouldn't valve bounce until more like 8,500rpm - and I don't achieve that very often, in this car at least

You won't get 8500 unless you use race springs. You don't need or want them..
Standard doubles for 850-1098 at $60 are OK, or fit Mini 1275 doubles (stronger) for $65.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.