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 Post subject: Front hub dramas, still.
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:13 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 7:15 pm
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Location: Waikiki WA
I,m still having drama with this front end. I took the thing apart again and checked everything, again. this time I torgued everthing to specs,BUT, when I do the driveshaft nut up to 60 lb/ft I can hardly rotate the wheel. I have to back it off to around 40 lb/ft. What am I doing wrong here?

Andy

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:54 am 
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If you are still using the old bearing spacer, it's worn. Don't run it like this you will shag the bearings. Find a new or unworn spacer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:38 am 
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I assume it has tapered bearings, sounds like the bearing is binding. Drive it like that and it won't just be the bearing that shags itself but the hub too. New wheel bearings are supposed to come as a matched set, so you shouldn't technically mix and match, but you could try a thicker spacer. Just be wary though, I tried this once and it all seemed fine, there seemed to be no movement when I shook the wheel, but it developed a random urge to hit the armco when I braked, but only sometimes.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 10:25 pm 
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The orig bearings had an insert in the hub and the bearing itself was an exposed race which ran round this insert. when I bought new ones they were a straight bearing not tapered so I drove the insert out and put the new bearing in in its place. they could have been the orig bearings. does this make sense.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:09 am 
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You cannot use the tapered roller spacers with standard ball bearings.
The spacers that come with tapered roller bearings (in a kit) are not the same width as those that are/were used with the standard ball bearings.
But these days the standard ball bearings usually come with 1/2 a `spacer' built into the width of each bearing, so no spacer is needed.

I prefer the Timken tapered rollers- they have about 2x the load capacity of the ball bearings and last longer, whether with fat wheels or stockies.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:08 pm 
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Thanks doc
after some brow furrowing and teeth nashing ive decided to go down the full resto path. time to stop f#@kin about. I'll probably need advice in the future but for now wish me luck guys
Andy

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 1:49 am 
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Hey guys, I put this post up a long long time ago, and i finally got around to taking the engine out. Guess what? the right hand engine mount was completely sheared and the left side was hanging on by a smidge of rubber!! that will probably explain the grumbling and grinding. Oh well. I've moved to Perth and I've finally, after 8 years, got my workshop built and the Mini is inside and i can get on with it.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 5:38 am 
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Great work mate, everyone need s shed. With the bearings in the front, I’d throw them and put in timken brand tapered rollers for the fact that the spacer and preload should be spot on without needing material taking off the spacer to get it right. I went cheap and payed for it in time taken to get the preload right even having to make a new spacer because one was too short.

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