Hello everyone,
After suffering the embarrassment this morning of being beaten at the lights by a P plater in a TG Gemini, I figured I need to make my car go faster.
I'm still running a HS2 carb (albeit with performance filter and ram pipe) which I am going to upgrade to HS4, just haven't quite perfected the carb yet.
We just pulled an LCB exhaust system off my mates Clubbie parts car. I am currently running 1.75" straight through box with some pretty basic three branch extractors. Would the LCB offer an improvement? I'm running a otherwise stock 1098/12G202. The other issue is that the LCB is welded to the exhaust so it would be easier to change the whole thing than keep my current system. The muffler connected to the LCB is a single box Perry muffler. Anybody know if Perry are any good? I believe it is 1.75" also.

Since my car is burning heaps of oil (6L in the last two months, in fact) I plan to pull the head off and do the valve stem seals. I'm pretty sure the majority of the oil is burning through the head. Anyone with a bit more experience than me please tell me how effective just replacing the stem seals might be - I have no idea about the condition of the head, just wondering what the chances of the guides being worn out aswell (which are harder to fix).

When I pull the head off, aswell as decoking it I hopefully will be shaving it aswell, if it hasn't been done already I hope to take 80 thou off (approx) to bring the CR up to 9.7:1 (from ~ 8.5:1). Will this make a noticable difference to the performance?

Cheers,
Anto.

A 12G202 is a good head for modifying. But just taking .080" off it won't make much difference.
What they need is some serious porting and combustion chamber mods, and bigger valves.
The ones I've done used modified 1275 valves, 1275 guides, rockers and springs packed up 1.5mm ('coz valves are longer), chambers reshaped similar to S.
It's a lot of work though.

Most 202 heads have the early guides that have no groove to retain proper seals. But you can fit S or Metro seals, they will stay on...

Really you would be better to get a spare 202 head, work it over, then swap it.

Also what cam is in it? To make a 1098 GO, you need something around 260-270* duration..

<edit> an LCB is better than a freeflow on a 1098, but don't expect miracles..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can I fit spring type stem seals in place of the O-ring style? They work much better so if I can fit those right on then I'll do that.

Perhaps I'll do the stem seals for the moment and yes, work on a different head. The problem is that I can't really take the car off the road for any length of time as I need to drive it! That was a problem with shaving the head face - can't get a machine shop to do it over the weekend, which is really the only time I *should* be tearing my engine apart

It is a stock cam. I'd like to fit something around the 266 duration. It's an engine out job, but if I was changing heads at the same time then it's no biggy to take the engine out. I'd prefer not to regraph the dizzy so something around the 260 - 266 hopefully will be fine.

I doubt the LCB would make a noticeable difference at the current spec, but it might be useful if I fit the cam.

Cheers,
Anto.

Yes I'm talking about the `spring' type seals (Metro) or the S ones (same but w/o spring).

Those O-rings in the spring retainers are not really a seal at all....

On a small bore, 850-998-1098 or a Cooper S you can do a cam change in the car. Easy if the head is off at the time...
You would need to pull the rockers, pushrods, lifters, remove rad, remove timing cover and undo cam sprocket etc.
Tou then need to `snip' one of the ribs in the rad shroud and bend it up to get the cam out. Afterward you're finished, a MIG tack will fix it.

On 1100S and Clubbie LS motors you can't do this in the car, because you need to remove the lifters (cam followers) first and there's no side covers. Also they have a star drive oil pump and you don't want to drop the star into the gearbox..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well that explains a lot - the car the LCB came out of had the bottom rad shroud bent up and I couldn't think why other than to access radiator bolts. Perhaps it was for the cam?

I'm still thinking it is much easier to take the engine out. I've done it a few times now so it isn't too much hassle. It was only Saturday we took the motor out of the parts car (using the drop the subframe method, which was new to me).

A 1098 with stage one and a 266 cam sounds nice - that should put those Geminis in their place. Not to mention I lost a race to an Alfa Romeo Gulietta a while back - like the ones in the Italian Job. How embarassing....

Thanks,
Anto.

I wouldn't go back to a 266 cam. Too tame...!
I've had lots of cams over the years including factory 731 and 544.
I like Graham Russell's RE-13 grind the best. Works great in 1098s with stock rockers, even better in big motors with 1.5 rockers.
And it'll last, too. Nice radius on the nose of the lobes. Not like the Camtech VP3 I had..

My power band now (don't try it in your 1098) is from 2700 to 8000...

You can make a 1098 go- all it takes is time and money. My first 1098 Mini back in `68 was good for low 16s at Castlereagh dragway.. it was bored to 1220, though..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes I'd like a 1220 with hillman imp pistons or something like that, but unfortunately that requires both time and money!

So a Graham Russell RE-13 cam would work well in my car (even without a worked head)? I want to keep some bottom end but I do like to rev my engine (it goes to about 5700 quite happily at the moment). At the moment my bottom end (below 2000) is pretty crap but I think it is flatspotting some how but I haven't tracked it down. It was flat spotting like mad when I was running the HS4 and I think it is also doing it now with the HS2, but to a much lesser extent.

What sort of cost would I be looking at? I take it it's exchange.

Cheers,
Anto.

pm sent

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for that mate. I'll look into getting a cam once I have the HS4 working. If I go that far I'll put it on the dyno aswell, if the budget stretches!

Anto.

hey guys,
im got a HS4 on my 1100,and getting some LCB extractors and 1.75" exhaust with a rezinator and muffler box,im going to get rid of the rezinator and just run muffler,BUT,will the LCB extractors make it sound deeper or tuffer/?,what im trying to say is,do they make much diffrence to the noise out the exhaust end of things?

It *can*, but it depends on how good your hearing is. I fitted 2.25" tail pipe onto my 1.75" straight through box and just that made it louder. If you run large bore LCB then yes it will be louder, but small bore (as opposed to medium) wouldn't make a difference I would have thought. But if you are going from a standard box to a single box straight through system then it should be loud enough.

As an example my brother fitted some huge extractors to his VL and made the car sound more 'cammy' at idle, using the same hotdog muffler. Go figure.

Cheers,
Anto.

my 998 ls sounds alot cammier with 1.75 in exhaust than a stock exhaust, but then again it may have a performance cam in it dunno wat people have done

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lookin for another clubby