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 Post subject: where oh where to start?
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 9:02 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 164
Location: Sandringham, vic
just wondering where the hell do i start?
i want to get some decent performance outta my car
its a 1275 to start with, with a 1.5" SU, 3 into 1 perry extracters ( bit dodgy i am told) and electronic ignition and thats all as far as i know..........

where is that best place to start with performance?
cam, heads, lcb instead of 3 into 1, ??
plus what sort of prices would i be looking at for particular mods?

plus has can anyone recomend specific brands and or products that are good and to look out for?

cheers steve


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 9:36 pm 
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Location: Canberra
Define 'dodgy'. If by dodgy you mean has dents and a dodgy repair job by some random, then yes replace it. If it is in okay condition then I'd be inclined to leave it as is... for the moment. I assume the muffler is straight through.

If it is a 1275 then it would have a decent head in standard form (12G940 or Cooper S or something), so maybe a cam? Standard cams were always a bit tame for drivability sake. My cam is around the 230* mark on my 1098, so I'm going to fit a 260* I just got my hands on. Fitting a similar cam to my mates 1098 made a huge difference, with standard 12G202 head. On a 1275 it would have something a bit better standard, but you could go something a bit hairier than a 260. Ask Dr Mini, he's the resident expert afterall. Did anyone mention... Graham Russel? ;) ;)

Well thats my two cents anyway.

Anto.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 10:02 pm 
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who is graham russel???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:30 pm
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Location: Toowoomba, Queenland, Australia
I run the same headers and have no complaints...But I'd start with a sidedraft- 45,48,50 weber or dhelortto. Long neck manifold. K&n filter and 2"ram tube. Then deshroud the valves and go for some slightly larger valves. Mild port(no polish). Bore size and stroke is up to the individual. Cam grind such as the magnum295 is pretty wild and a lot of fun... 1 3/4 exhaust system with a fast flow box tops it all off. Just be a bit weary that when the gg's get up around the 100hp g/box trouble is very posible...
Cheers

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2004 2:14 am 
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Location: Adelaide SA Ausmini Sales Department
The problem here isnt knowing what to do, but more like knowing what you'd like to end up with.

No point doing a bit of this and a bit of that, then finding out that those mods wont suit your next modification. That will just end up costin ya BIG bucks.

You gotta plan your engine build. Are you looking for more power, more torque or something else??

It helps to know what sort of power band and you'd like to have, find out what type of setup will be required to get to that point, find out the cost, then save like CrAzY and get it all done in one hit (less weekends off the road)

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2004 7:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Rebuild the gearbox properly with no shortcuts and it's no problem. red850 is sticking 140HP thru a Mini-K box, I know of racers doing the same. My Mk2 S box is copping around 115HP.

By `properly' I mean crack test 2nd gear and cluster, replace ALL the bearings & baulk rings, layshaft, forks and synchro hubs (if worn), replace diff pin with a comp one and new planet gears and washers. Or, :wink: buy a twin x-pin diff...
<edit> and check the nose of the mainshaft. If worn, go find a good one..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2004 6:41 pm 
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well i would love to be able to say i want the most power out of it as possible, but it is my daily driver so i think refined modest power is the order of the day.

i would like to keep some drivability, have some really good power, more torque and keep it all not too stressed or frantic.

one more thing how important would an oil cooler be once performance has been upped? since my block has no possible way of fitting one (bloody south africans) the oil filter is a screw on type directly on to the block up where the oil line would normaly goe back into the engine.

thanks very much everyone.

cheers steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2004 4:02 pm 
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???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2004 5:15 pm 
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I reckon carb is too small, ports in the head (if stock) are too small, your cam is unknown and an LCB would be better than the 3 into 1 (if it's just a freeflow).

All these things need addressing if you expect to get real power from it. Just doing some of it won't give a big gain.

I'd start by buying Vizard's book `Tuning BL's A series engine', it will help you see what is needed.
Another good book is Des Hammill's `How to power tune the BMC/BL/Rover 1275 A series engine'.

This last one was on special, at www.pitstop.net.au last week. 8)

<edit> oil cooler is good for the track, but unless you are doing lots of high speed driving you don't really need it for the road. Just use a good 20W/50, 25W/50 or 20W/60 oil.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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