so far so good - it's great until about 4000rpm, it's a bit lean at the moment. Will do some more fiddling this arvo



the standard setup is to T the outlets of the two tanks together and draw from that, which makes them self level, but like M1100 said, I'm drawing from both and returning most of it to the left, so it fills it up quicker than they can self level.

looks like 69k1100, afh001 and I all had the same thought of putting another barb fitting in the left hand tank, connect the RH tank to that so the RH is only topping up the left as it's needed. I might experiment with some bottles of water and a windscreen washer pump

Notice any changes to the cooling issue you had previously yet?

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went for the first proper drive today actually - f*ck me that little car moves

it's a little lean when progressing from vacuum to boost, but otherwise it's great - rev limit in top gear is noooo problem at all

seems to be running cooler, though the air temperature has dropped and there's a lot of moisture in the air. I'll take the extra radiator off today and see what it's like tomorrow. I think the issue I had has been there all along, it was just being hidden by the temperature gauge, and was shown up by the radiator cap failing

Have you got any power readouts from the different stages? eg N/A, SC carbie and SC efi.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

not really - N/A was about 60 at the wheels, never got around to dynoing it with the blower.

the only (almost) quantifiable difference between N/A and with the blower was the 0-100 time - it was about 11 seconds N/A, then about 9 seconds after I put the blower on, but I was on a different bit of road. It was running a bit wierd too which I corrected after that as well...

other than that, when it was N/A, if I didn't have my roof rack on, it'd get to 6500rpm in top without complaining, but if I had my roof rack on, it wouldn't go over 5000rpm. With the blower on, the roof rack didn't phase it

A small part of me wants to know how you found that out, but the rest of me is too sensible to ask

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

it's been running really well, I've been fiddling with the fuelling to get rid of my flat spot. My guru asked how it's been going and I described what it was doing, he said "give it a bit more advance in that area", so I gave it a degree or two more, and it's not perfect, but sh*tloads better. I don't call him my guru for nothing! I'll back the fuel off again now, cos it's drinking it like a fish

I also did something a bit unusual for me - I actually paid money for something I could have scrounged for nothing, or made myself.... but in my defence, it's made from cheese, and only cost me $23 (delivered) off ebay

it's a shiny bling bling silver anodised aluminium fuel pump bracket to replace the crusty old coil bracket I was using temporarily

old v's new



I made a more substantial plate to mount it from a bit of scrap aluminium.. I chopped the legs off the brackets, and tapped some holes for studs



now I'll bend up a little heat shield for it

I made an electro-mechanical choke!!

I cut the end off the old choke cable and made a little bracket with a slide-potentiometer. The pot plugs into the "trim" input on the injection computer to give a 0-12.5% fuel increase (or 0-50% with a different configuration option)

theoretically there's absolutely no point, but pfft - I guess I could zero out the coolant temperature correction map, then it'd be needed, but that's just being silly.


no choke

half choke

all choke


cool 'eh

I do have a practical reason though, I'd like a fuel trim to see if I can get around the hesitation I have. However I did get my guru's chassis dyno working today after a month of dicking around - woo hoo

Electro-mechanical choke! You must be running out of things to make or something!

Have you driven it yet with a low fuel level? Interested to hear how your doing without a surge tank, hopefully ok so I can do without it!

Andrew

does running out of fuel count? how about doing running out twice?

The first time I drove from the workshop to home, drove home normally and it conked out while I was opening the garage door, my driveway slopes down to the road, so the little bit of fuel in the tank would have run away from the pickup. The second time was while driving after dropping the kids off at school, it was just like running out of fuel with a carb - lost power, no throttle response, then dead. Lucky the RH tank was full

I even left the ignition on all day at work last week, the blower clutch must draw a bit of current because it flattened the battery. My work is at the top of a hill, with a loong driveway - which was lucky cos I needed 3rd gear to get enough charge from the alternator to drive the fuel pump!!!

I installed my choke today, when I was installing it, I realised that the trim is plus and minus 12.5%. I didn't want the minus, so I added a couple of resistors to make the low side of the pot to be 0%

I also installed an Idle Air Control valve. Andrew sent me the IAC stepper motor last year along with the throttle body and sensors (thanks again ).

My Haltech is the F9A - the A meaning that it has a bunch of auxilliary outputs, including the ability to drive an idle control stepper motor. When I first got the Haltech, it didn't have the extra connector for the auxilliary outputs. I figured I'd see what it was like without an IAC, and decide if I needed it or not. After I got the car going, I decided pretty quickly that I did want it, because it was a pain in the bum in the morning when the engine was cold, without a fast idle I had to keep my foot on the accelerator until it was warmed up. It took a fair bit of digging to find somewhere that sold the connector, I ended up ordering one from RS. RS' website said they had just 1 in stock GLOBALLY, and it was in UK. It cost $4, and because I ordered online, it had free shipping. It took a couple of weeks, but it arrived last week. It must've cost them a fortune, shipping it from UK to Sydney, then from Sydney to me, just for a $4 connector.

Here's the IAC boss I made up, it takes clean air from the top of the air filter and feeds it to the inlet manifold after the throttle body, via the a T piece in the breather air line from the blower. The motor itself has a little plunger that goes in and out, the plunger blocks a port between the two barb fittings.

I started it up tonight and let it warm up, it works well




here's the elusive connector in question
[/img]

Looks like you are getting there. I started to look into it but for me it would be easier to buy the sc efi kit. Buy the time you've baut megasquirt etc.

But In the end I just got scared of the whole thing, thats without thinking about the costs.

Your looks a great build

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998 SC12 61atw

I worked out that the whole lot has cost me less than $1000 - the ignition was about $350, the supercharger was about $400, and this injection is in the order of $150 now since I've bought some extra bits & bobs. I wouldn't dream of adding up the hours I've spent though.



why thank you I'm quite proud of myself

I competed with it last weekend, and was quite happy with how it went

I have my guru's dyno is up and running now, we just need to get the work ute on it to test a bit then will put the brick on there and see if I can't get to the bottom of the flat spots.

update

I spent thursday afternoon on the dyno trying to get to the bottom of the wierd hesitation I have on light throttle between 1500 and 2500 rpm. It goes lean for no good reason, and sometimes I get a backfire through the manifold. I've played with fuel and advance around that point and get nowhere. It runs great on new plugs, but after a little while it goes to crap

The dyno is a dyno dynamics one at (Matt) Websters in Wodonga, not my guru's dyno, which we do have working, but need to make a platform behind it so I can put my mini on, the load cell only works in one direction so with the ramps where they are a RWD is fine, but not FWD. We did put the mini on there last weekend and it does all the right things, but doesn't give a torque reading. (Dynoing it in reverse is a bit pointless)

Everything was great on Matt's dyno, but my injectors are at 100% under full load from ~4000 rpm up. It had enough fuel to keep a good AFR until about 5500 then it went lean. Was making 89bhp at 5800 which is about what I was expecting

After sorting through the mixtures on the dyno we drove around and around the block trying to get a good throttle pump - didn't really get there but it was OK

Then I went to drive home, and didn't get around the corner and it backfired again a few times. I went back and picked Matt up again and drove around backfiring and had no idea what was going on. I had to go so went home.

Yesterday I went and bought some new sparkplugs and it was back to running well. But the plugs in it were only a couple of weeks old. It had been great until we dynod it and changed the fuelling, changed the throttle pumps etc.

So at my guru's request I spent yesterday with the engine oscilloscope looking at the sparks, and he pointed out wierd looking pulses, and it even looked like one half of the 1-4 coil wasn't working. I swapped to another coil and it looked the same. So either the other coil had the same problem as the first to start with, or the EDIS unit is doing something odd to them. A long time ago I shorted out one side of the coils trigger wire and it cooked the coil, but it might've cooked the EDIS unit too. But it's really wierd

When my guru gave me the Haltech (F9A - fuel only) he also gave me the matching ignition computer (IG5). So I have been ORDERED to set up the IG5. Will try to do that tomorrow.

Nice...

I come back and look at what I miss.

I regret getting rid of my dc12 so long ago , now that I know how cheaply it can be done.

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