Sounds like a straight cut gearbox to the uninformed, more like it

They both whine just one more than the other.

Correct me if I'm wrong but:
From what i've heard I'm pretty sure straight cuts are weaker than the normal gears because only one or two teeth are taking the load at a time compared to normal gears that mesh two or three teeth together at once so the load is more distributed.
Also isn't the idea of sc gears to make it easier/cheaper to change ratios seeing as the machine to create the gear is less complex. Isn't that why the racing boys started using them? (then boy racers figured that race cars used them so they have to be better than the std normal gears , not everything a race car has is better than std for road use).

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Racers use straight cut gears because there is less friction.

Fixed for ya...
As for the `less friction' has anybody done a back to back dyno test? A well known Mini tuner reckons there is sfa difference where the rubber meets the road...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and they are all deaf anyway....

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"Show me the Mini!"

It's all in the hands of GR. He is busy and I'm not going to annoy him.

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Dalmeny

And at 6500rpm the supercharger makes a louder whine

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

You lucky bugger!


Fair enough. Let the master work!

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1963 850 - laid up
1970 Morris mini K van - eating up the kms!

Motor not quite ready, we're still hoping for before xmas.

In the mean time I organised the radiator, 50mm Alloy (from China) and for an extra $20 they modified the top outlet for me.



Mini Spares had a special going so purchased a MS molybdenum cross pin diff $182 and a 3:1 CWP $170 and other bits that go with them. Plus delivery of cause. I was torn between leaving the 3:44 in or going with the 3:1 so eventually I will be able to let you know if it was the right discision.





Also decided to build another box so the one in the car now can stay bolted to the 1098. I got a box from John at the MiniKing that was in pretty good condition, and with the spares I had made a 'good to go' box. Nothing special here standard 4 syc.

I have even decided to use the standard oil pick up. Spoke to a number of (mini) people and there was no overwhelming consensus on the use of a centre pick up for road use. Obviously never let the oil get low and even run a little extra oil. And personally I didn't like the size of the mesh at the end of the central pick up and the fact that it sits on the bottom of the sump.



Hopefully the next post will start getting into the engine and head put together.

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Dalmeny

What's going on with this build

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Just waiting for GR

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Dalmeny

re the centre oil pickups, I've never had a problem in 20 years use of one. But I do change the oil religiously every 1500 miles and the filter every 3000.
Whenever I've stripped the box the strainer mesh is spotless.

Need to check the mesh clears the reverse fork lever on remote boxes, a slight pipe bend outwards fixes this. On a rodchange box there's no problem.

[edit] typo

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How much are the plastic tanks?

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Picked it up off ebay $175 included all the brackets and fittings, but no pipe to the other side. Prices have varied, upwards of that price from when I first started looking. Australian made and good quality.

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Dalmeny

Doc, I do respect your opinion and I would most likely never have a problem, but I'm going with the standard pick up. I just don't think it's a absolute necessity for road use.

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Dalmeny