OK! on the CR I intend to have it checked again by the engine tuner, with his equipment and if it's still the same as what I came up with I'll deal with it, as suggested by GR, with the appropriate head gasket thickness. Which should also give me full clearance, maybe .

Knowing that the bottom end will stay intact I commenced assembling the the bottom "Twinky" plate and pulleys.

Block ready for the front plate.



Plate attached using countersunk bolts on the Cam Thrust and Crank Cap. This is to clear the rebate in the back of the "Twinky" bottom plate.



Fitted up the pulley seals to the plate. Got the gasket in place losely fitted all the bolts, slide the pulleys in to centre the seals and tightened it up.



Also dry fitted the water pump to check fitment. You will notice 2 countersunk bolts in the pump and one of the webbs on the pump housing removed. This is to clear the timing belt.

The crank pulley is a MED balanced engine management pulley with matching CNC pick up bracket (sensor also comes with it).



And on the otherside a Dutsun 120Y radiator hose is the perfact shape.



Hopefully I can start on the top end sooner rather than latter.

ps Matt, any tips on how to tighten the cam nut with levering against the pulley, or do you just do it when the belt is on

_________________
Dalmeny

That looks sexual! Awesome job so far

_________________
Potato

Wow that looks good Is the water pump pulley larger than normal?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Yes it is. It stated in the add that the larger diameter pulley stops or helps the impeller from gravitating (is that the word?). I have no idea if this is fact or fiction, but it looked good

_________________
Dalmeny

cavitating

& i`m not too sure about it either but what the hell the pulley looks hot hey?

edit--> just to confirm,,, i know what cavitation is & what it does,,, that`s why i corrected Steve with the "Gravitation" thing But what i`m not too sure of is "If" minis suffer from cavitation at hi revs,,, if that was actually so, then i figured that i would have found some problems in that area with our race engines over the last 40 odd years,,, but we havn`t ,,, so,,, i`m not to sure if cavitation is such a problem on minis as some people would try to lead you to believe


& Steve i just grab the pulley real tight in my hand with a rag & a little locktite on the thread & rattle gun it up i have been meaning to make up a tool to fit the pulley teeth nice with a lever off it but just havn`t got there/ havnt bothered

Lookin good Steve

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Ok so what is cavitating?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Ahhhh i'l have a shot i used to work on waterpumps on farms/industry etc , cavitation causes the water to eat the metal away inside your pump , from memory its if the pump exceeds the supply of water due to pressure changes in the pipe/system .

_________________
Project Pickles is ALIVE!!!!! Click Here!
Success is so much sweeter after the struggle

When an air pocket is formed around the impeller.
The pump churns the water so hard that it creates air bubbles.

Both correct, cavitation damages the metal because of the intense energy produced when the vapour bubbles implode.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

Pistol shrimp, extreme cavitation used to kill small fish!

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpheidae#section_3

Edit*

That pulley slows the water pump down so it doesn't cavitate at high revs.

So is it running yet

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I wish!!

Stripped off the gearbox again and back to GR on Saturday to have the appropriate dishes machined into the top of the pistons. Then I will have 11.0:1 with a 40thou head gasket.

_________________
Dalmeny

BACK ON TRACK!!!

As stated above, off to GR's this morning for an expert measure up (CC'ing the head and pistons).

As expected I wasn't too far out with my mearsuring. I thought I needed to find another 8cc, which I thought I could get with 3mm H/G, in copper. But, after talking to MattR and Graham, the proper way to do it was dish the pistons.

Graham did some calculations on the first piston, machined it and refitted it for another measure. The total including dish, fly cuts and deck height gave us 10cc's. Head CC 19cc's (a long way from the standard 28cc's hey Matt) and 4cc's for the H/G.

Giving me the desired C/R of 11.4:1

GR machining one of the dishes.


And the difference between the before and after.


And, out of there by lunch time with it assembled. A huge thank you to Graham, whom I'm sure could have been doing something else on a Saturday morning.

Hope those flash new special head gaskets aren't far away

_________________
Dalmeny

Looking good.
Can't wait to hear what it will sound like when started for the first time

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Will probably sound just like mine....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Xp9kXKR8Hs

Hey smarty, Is that a 16v or 8v and are those the standard cams? It sounds really lumpy. And what air filters are they?

Thanks

_________________
Dalmeny