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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:09 pm 
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848cc
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Let me start by saying that I have been communicating with 'theminiman' (thanks Matt), but I have a million questions and Matt is busy and I don't want to wear out my welcome with questions others may have encountered and resolved. I'll leave the Twinky specific questions to Matt.

This was phase one.

Image

Image

Used the original 1098 completely rebuilt, but only very mild.

But, now I have decided to have another go at the motor as a long term project. Considered a complete transplant, but didn't want to cut my body up.

Therefore decided on a Bimmer Twinky conversion. and keep the car on the road whilst doing it.

First objective was to source the main components.

Sourced on 1275 (1100S) block, crank and rods.

Image

Image

Once I had the block I seached for a head and got this in Victoria. (BMW K1100 16V head)


Image

Image

And somewhere down the track put them together with the Bimmer Twinky kit.

Image

At this stage I'm still planning what it's going to be, 1360 or 1380. Natrually Aspirated or Turbo.

Like I said I have a milloin questions so a couple at the time.

Q1. Is 1380 too big for the 1100s block with small journal crank with S rods?

Q2. As the cam will only be used for the dizzy drive and front pulley will a 1098 cam and matching oil pump work in this 1275 block?

Q3. Can the can lobes be ground off on a bench grinder, or will it create too much heat?

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Last edited by dalmeny on Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:40 am 
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848cc
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I'm in pretty much the same position as you, except that I have a large journal crank and the 8v head, so I'll be watching the answers with interest. I have opted for 1330 to start with in the hope that I can get one more rebore before the block is scrap (or sleeved).

Are you planing to stick with fuel injection? That is my plan, probably with a megasquirt system, but if there is an easier way I'd love to hear it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:10 pm 
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dalmeny wrote:
Q1. Is 1380 too big for the 1100s block with small journal crank with S rods?

Q2. As the cam will only be used for the dizzy drive and front pulley will a 1098 cam and matching oil pump work in this 1275 block?

Q3. Can the can lobes be ground off on a bench grinder, or will it create too much heat?


first up i`d like to say --> how good does that engine look ??? :-)

anyways, enough of that for now, lets get to the answers to your questions

1- no 1380 is not too big,,, you can never have enough cubes in my books :-) my own personal road motor is 1510cc (1426cc bore plus the extra stroke) & my good mate Stewys race motor is 1600cc

2-you can use the small-bore cam but you will be best to source one of "sitnlo62"`s (Dave) cam-pump adaptors, you will want to use a hi-vol spade drive oil pump & with the adaptor from Dave it will all be peachy,,, i`m currently sourcing the 4140 for the job so Dave can make some more adaptors anyways

3-Yes the cam lobes can be ground off with a bench grinder, you can even use an angle grinder to start & then slip the cam into a lathe & finish it off clean,,, it is a messy job but well worth doing as it`s best to get rid of the lobes... it saves having to dial that cam in,,,--> if you don`t grind the lobes off then you will need to dial the cam in as per std issue a-series because the lobes can hit the big-ends if you don`t

cheers & you`re not wearing out your welcome Steve, i`m more than happy to help any & all the Twinky people out there :-)

Image

:-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:12 pm 
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Oh & great looking car BTW Steve,,, Nice,,, real nice

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:54 pm 
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998cc
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TheMiniMan wrote:
Oh & great looking car BTW Steve,,, Nice,,, real nice


makes me wanna get a clubby, and a twinky.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:19 pm 
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paul_ewins wrote:
I'm in pretty much the same position as you, except that I have a large journal crank and the 8v head, so I'll be watching the answers with interest. I have opted for 1330 to start with in the hope that I can get one more rebore before the block is scrap (or sleeved).

Are you planing to stick with fuel injection? That is my plan, probably with a megasquirt system, but if there is an easier way I'd love to hear it.


Still undecided!! I sourced some forged flat top pistons with fly cuts in them specifically for the 16V. (MED Engineering UK), but since then I noticed in Matt's build guide a plenum chamber attached to the outside of the bmw throttle bodies. If this is right I might be swayed to turbo.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:26 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
dalmeny wrote:
Q1. Is 1380 too big for the 1100s block with small journal crank with S rods?

Q2. As the cam will only be used for the dizzy drive and front pulley will a 1098 cam and matching oil pump work in this 1275 block?

Q3. Can the can lobes be ground off on a bench grinder, or will it create too much heat?


first up i`d like to say --> how good does that engine look ??? :-)

anyways, enough of that for now, lets get to the answers to your questions

1- no 1380 is not too big,,, you can never have enough cubes in my books :-) my own personal road motor is 1510cc (1426cc bore plus the extra stroke) & my good mate Stewys race motor is 1600cc

2-you can use the small-bore cam but you will be best to source one of "sitnlo62"`s (Dave) cam-pump adaptors, you will want to use a hi-vol spade drive oil pump & with the adaptor from Dave it will all be peachy,,, i`m currently sourcing the 4140 for the job so Dave can make some more adaptors anyways

3-Yes the cam lobes can be ground off with a bench grinder, you can even use an angle grinder to start & then slip the cam into a lathe & finish it off clean,,, it is a messy job but well worth doing as it`s best to get rid of the lobes... it saves having to dial that cam in,,,--> if you don`t grind the lobes off then you will need to dial the cam in as per std issue a-series because the lobes can hit the big-ends if you don`t

cheers & you`re not wearing out your welcome Steve, i`m more than happy to help any & all the Twinky people out there :-)

Image

:-)


Matt. re Q2. So don't race out and but a pump? What does the adaptor do? And is the high volumn spade drive pump a mini part?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:35 pm 
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848cc
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Right I think we have Q1 & Q3 sorted. Q2. some carification required.


As a matter of interest these are the pistons I located, now we know 1380 is fine.

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... ed-pistons

Q4. As the crank didn't come with any primary gear I need to purchase a set of appropriate drop gears. Do All the 1275 cranks A & A+ use the same primary gear?

Q5. Straight cut or helical. Are the S/C as noisy as reported. As this car will never be use for track days will the helical gears suffice, or does the strength and power transfer out weigh the NOISE factor?

Q6. Is anyone using the standard centre main cap, without a strap, or is it considered a modified centre main cap is imperative with a 1380 turbo'd or N/A?

Q7. Assuming this is for an A+ engine, will it fit the 1100S, with appropriate drilling?

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... -main-only

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:14 am 
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998cc
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What did you pay for the 16v head if you don't mind me asking?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:31 am 
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clarification of Q2-->

if you used a late english type "Spade-drive" cam,,, then you can use a late hi-vol spade drive oil pump

If you use an 1100S "Spider-drive" cam,,, then you can use a spider drive type oil pump

If you use an early model small-bore (998-1098) type camshaft,,, then it is a "pin-drive" So--> pin-drive pumps are a bit hard to find,,, SO... Dave (sitnlo62) has (in the past) made us some adaptors to suit the pin-drive cam & bolt the late "spade-drive" hi-vol oil pump to it

easy-peasy

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:39 am 
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Bimmer Twinky
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dalmeny wrote:
Right I think we have Q1 & Q3 sorted. Q2. some carification required.


As a matter of interest these are the pistons I located, now we know 1380 is fine.

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... ed-pistons

Q4. As the crank didn't come with any primary gear I need to purchase a set of appropriate drop gears. Do All the 1275 cranks A & A+ use the same primary gear?

Q5. Straight cut or helical. Are the S/C as noisy as reported. As this car will never be use for track days will the helical gears suffice, or does the strength and power transfer out weigh the NOISE factor?

Q6. Is anyone using the standard centre main cap, without a strap, or is it considered a modified centre main cap is imperative with a 1380 turbo'd or N/A?

Q7. Assuming this is for an A+ engine, will it fit the 1100S, with appropriate drilling?

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... -main-only


Q4-> small-bore & big bore drops are different in the "Primary gear" the 1275 type primary gear has a larger inner diameter on the front end of it... the idler gear (the middle one) & first motion-shaft driven gear (the bottom one) are the same... however be aware there are 2 types of sall these,,, as in--> A-series & A+ types,,, 2 different cuts & 2 different bearing sizes on the idler gears... crickey i think i`m getting confusing now :-) :-) :-)

Q5-> helical drop gears will be quiet & cheaper than straight cut, you call tho,,, however you loose "less power" using the straight cut drops, & yes they are a bit noisy.

Q6-> I personally don`t use a main strap or any special 4-bolt main cap, (Altho i do sell them & happy to fit them if the customer requests it)
what i do is i allow far-far greater clearance in the lower (cap) thrust washers to allow the crank to flex without "Working" on the main-cap,,, this way the bols have less chance of fatiguing & failing... if the cap isn`t being """wobbled-upon""" then the main cap bolts won`t freak-out :-)

Q7-> yes, should fit, looks to be the one, make sure when if-when you oreder it ,,, or get one of mine :-)

Image

almost finished in this pick

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:22 pm 
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kirby wrote:
What did you pay for the 16v head if you don't mind me asking?


$950 with every thing you see.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:27 pm 
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848cc
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TheMiniMan wrote:
clarification of Q2-->

if you used a late english type "Spade-drive" cam,,, then you can use a late hi-vol spade drive oil pump

If you use an 1100S "Spider-drive" cam,,, then you can use a spider drive type oil pump

If you use an early model small-bore (998-1098) type camshaft,,, then it is a "pin-drive" So--> pin-drive pumps are a bit hard to find,,, SO... Dave (sitnlo62) has (in the past) made us some adaptors to suit the pin-drive cam & bolt the late "spade-drive" hi-vol oil pump to it

easy-peasy


Right, I'll talk to you further about this adaptor and where these hi-vol pumps c an be obtained.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 3:33 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Goulburn NSW
TheMiniMan wrote:
dalmeny wrote:
Right I think we have Q1 & Q3 sorted. Q2. some carification required.


As a matter of interest these are the pistons I located, now we know 1380 is fine.

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... ed-pistons

Q4. As the crank didn't come with any primary gear I need to purchase a set of appropriate drop gears. Do All the 1275 cranks A & A+ use the same primary gear?

Q5. Straight cut or helical. Are the S/C as noisy as reported. As this car will never be use for track days will the helical gears suffice, or does the strength and power transfer out weigh the NOISE factor?

Q6. Is anyone using the standard centre main cap, without a strap, or is it considered a modified centre main cap is imperative with a 1380 turbo'd or N/A?

Q7. Assuming this is for an A+ engine, will it fit the 1100S, with appropriate drilling?

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... -main-only


Q4-> small-bore & big bore drops are different in the "Primary gear" the 1275 type primary gear has a larger inner diameter on the front end of it... the idler gear (the middle one) & first motion-shaft driven gear (the bottom one) are the same... however be aware there are 2 types of sall these,,, as in--> A-series & A+ types,,, 2 different cuts & 2 different bearing sizes on the idler gears... crickey i think i`m getting confusing now :-) :-) :-)

Q5-> helical drop gears will be quiet & cheaper than straight cut, you call tho,,, however you loose "less power" using the straight cut drops, & yes they are a bit noisy.

Q6-> I personally don`t use a main strap or any special 4-bolt main cap, (Altho i do sell them & happy to fit them if the customer requests it)
what i do is i allow far-far greater clearance in the lower (cap) thrust washers to allow the crank to flex without "Working" on the main-cap,,, this way the bols have less chance of fatiguing & failing... if the cap isn`t being """wobbled-upon""" then the main cap bolts won`t freak-out :-)

Q7-> yes, should fit, looks to be the one, make sure when if-when you oreder it ,,, or get one of mine :-)

Image

almost finished in this pick



SEE! if you don't ask you don't find out. Didn't know you had that stuff Matt. I'll talk to you further.

Thanks
Steve

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:43 pm 
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Q.8 Where does the threaded oil gallery hole at the back of the 1100S block go?
Image

Q9. I have had a detailed conversation with 'theminiman' and he gave me a convincing argument to use a diff no taller than 3.1. Has any used and are/were happy with a 2.9?

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