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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:01 am 
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848cc
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Location: Goulburn NSW
TheMiniMan wrote:
yeah... std issue minis are 1342
Twinkys are 1243



Hi Matt, Firing order as per twinky 1243. This is how mircotech told me to set up the trigger wheel pickup. TDC #1, degree wheel on crank with pointer on zero, turn the crank back 60 degrees (anti-clockwise) and take the tooth out that is under the pick up. How do you set up your pickup position. Is it more than 60 degrees?

What fuel pressure should be at the fuel rail?

What cc/minute are the standard K1100lt injectors?

Because it has a 36-1 tooth wheel should it be group fired or sequential?

As far as the comp tests goes, I was asked was the gauge acurate? I borowed it from the bike shop so I don't know!

If all the above is right maybe I need to find someone else to run a fresh set of eyes over it :oops:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:54 am 
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1098cc
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megajolt uses a 36-1 trigger wheel and it says
4cyl - 90degrees
6cyl - 60degrees
8cyl - 50degrees

I would assume that is pretty standard across the board for 36-1 trigger wheels

Sequential requires a cam angle sensor of some sort. Just using the crank position you can't tell which stroke the cylinder is on.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:20 am 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
yeah... std issue minis are 1342
Twinkys are 1243


Thanks Matt

Can i ask why the firing order changes, is it made the same as a k1100 bike


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:14 am 
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
yeah... std issue minis are 1342
Twinkys are 1243


Thanks Matt

Can i ask why the firing order changes, is it made the same as a k1100 bike

I'm pretty sure it's to do with the BMW cams in the head we are now using.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:27 am 
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Any luck getting it going dalmeny?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:43 am 
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
yeah... std issue minis are 1342
Twinkys are 1243


Thanks Matt

Can i ask why the firing order changes, is it made the same as a k1100 bike


the K-bike engine runs anti-clockwise & the cams are "concentric"
ie: same opening ramp as the closing ramp

so when we fit the cyl head onto the mini engine we can run the cams clockwise (same as the mini engine runs)
& when we do this the orientation of the lobes (running order) necessitates we use the 1243 order,,, simples really :-)

& no the donk is not a runner yet,,, please be patient tho people, it will happen , we are all helping to solve whatever silly little problem it is that`s stopping the girl fire up.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:30 pm 
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Thanks that makes sense, its the first time I have come across needing to change the firing order

I wonder what other secrets there are.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:03 am 
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no secrets,,, just a few fiddly things to make, mod & procure
then it`s just business as usual same as building any other engine
just put it together & you`re away :-)

but it helps if you have everything right before you try to start it of course :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:58 pm 
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Hi Steve
Any news ?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:17 pm 
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slacko wrote:
Hi Steve
Any news ?



Hi Mark

Everytime we think we have it sorted it turns to crap. Had to replace $280 dollars worth of AeroFlow black braided fuel hose the other day. I've never seen anything like it, it looked like a garden soaker hose. Fuel was just oozing out the full length of the hose, and it grew a couple of feet longer. Aeroflow said they had a whole container of faulty hose and I got some of it. New stuff is in and we're back to the drawing board.

So, the next job is to replace the 150.8cc BMW injectors with 220cc replacements and replace the BMW regulator with an adjustable one. The fuel pressure at the rail is 35lbs, but I think we need more. The fuel pressure was suggested as a problem a couple of weeks ago by one GR's race buddies, thanks Santino.

Wish me luck I need it.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:11 pm 
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Sounds like you have a good logical way forward.

Fuel hose turning to jelly not good: probably a good thing getting 'clean injectors' anyway

Keep your head up, just a couple more jobs to go


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:33 pm 
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998cc
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I am pretty sure you will get it sorted Steve
with your determination and attention to detail it will all come together
just keep us updated , please :D
love your work , right from the start

Mark


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:30 am 
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So close yet so far. Must be so frustrating to be at this part and not be able to drive it. Probably not what you want to hear, in a way its good because this helps all those others undertaking these types of builds. Enjoying your build look forward to seeing it one day.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:59 pm 
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Well, since the last post I have sorted out all the new fuel lines, Welded the tooth back on the trigger wheel and removed the tooth at 90 degree instead of 60 degree. Replaced the BMW injectors with 205cc injectors (Commodore VT). Replaced the BMW fuel regulator with an adjustable "Aeroflow" FPR, set at 44lbs. We have had our initial play with the setting and about to strap it to the dyno. Idle still fluctuating a lot. Going to try using just one vaccum line off one throttle body, instead of having all four linked, and feeding the ECU and FPR.

Also replaced the alternator with one of 'convertable mini's' 70amp jobs went from punching out about 12.5 volts to 14 volts, when needed.

And at the moment, not totally happy with the clutch. Hard to engage first and even harder to engage reverse. Hoping the new MED Ultra lite and AP plate beds in a bit (orange dot diaphram), if not will be looking for a tiny bit more adjustment somewhere.

Double click

Image

More after the dyno.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:31 am 
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awesome!! good luck with the dyno, take some video if you get the chance :-)

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