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 Post subject: running in new engine
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:45 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:31 pm
Posts: 447
Location: melbourne
hi guys just thought id tap into the knowledge base on running new engine ive been told 3 different methods,any ideas
thanx


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 2:35 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:46 am
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Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD
I'm also interested in others opinions on how to do this,

Keith Calver's method is here


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I'll go along with KC's method for NEW (ie fully reconditioned) engines.

But if it's just a re-ring and bearings job, You don't need to baby it so much.
A few full throttle runs uphill will help the new rings bed into the old bores better, and after 100-200 miles change the oil and filter..
Then ZZZZZOOOOM!! 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:16 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 3:19 pm
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Location: Perth WA
If it is a full rebuild, including new cam and lifters, then run the motor at around 2000 rpm for the first 15 mins. Keep a close eye on temp guage. This beds in the cam and lifters and prevents premature wear. Stop the engine, fix any leaks.

After that follow Calvers instructions.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:53 pm
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Location: Townsville Nth QLD
If ya dont know what oil is in there, or it hasnt been done yet, I would definitely suggest a Detergent type oil (run-in oil) for the first few run's.

Its specially designed to wash any crap outta the engine, but shouldnt be used for long as it breaks down pretty quick. That's why your first oil change interval is always so short.

I always specify that the cam and associated running gear be "Molybonded" during the buildup, so that there is some lubrication until the oil gets up to do it's job.

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