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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:20 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
Then what would I do with my twin SU's?

Nope, no supercharging for me. I'm keeping the period look. Besides, I need lots of dosh at the end of this year to climb mountains. The budget just doesn't extend to superfast Mini's as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
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Location: Western Australia
I thought I would do a little prep work tonight. Basically, degrease the exterior so all the nuts and bolts will be easier to undo when I start stripping down. I guess I had better drain any old oil from the sump too?

Here's a question: How much water can a Mini engine hold in its sump? I can tell you, it's a lot. And eventually what follows is like grey, cold custard which for some reason has to struggle to get through the hole. Ages, it took. I bet everything inside even remotely related to iron will be bright orange in colour and fit only for paperweights. It get pretty breezy in the workshop.

So, looking at the engine, looking at the scrap-metal bin, counting to ten and taking a deep breath, I leave the curse in the corner of the workshop where it will sit until I have enough nerve to look inside.

****** Mini's.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:20 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:05 pm
Posts: 1500
Location: perth WA
Yeah not good. I got some 1100 bits here and 2 gear boxes. Not sure of condition but they are yours if you want them.

Was gonna rebuild the 1100 but cant be bothered atm.

Rodney

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
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1967 deluxe high strung 1310
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 12:24 pm
Posts: 1385
Location: Perth WA
I may have an 1100 up for grabs soon I'm getting very close to securing a 1275 :D


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 12:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
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Location: Western Australia
Thanks for the offers. I'll probably pull it apart later in the week and grab a few photos for here.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 9:50 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
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Location: Western Australia
Started with the easy bits tonight: Cooling fan, off. Timing pulley, off. Timing cover, off. Super slack chain inside for variable timing! Sprockets, off. Why are you taking all this off, you don't need to? Oops.

Other end: Wok, off. Spring cover, off. Big-ass bolt in the crank, off. Quick tap through the starter hole to free up the flywheel, another tap, bigger hammer, tap, tap, BFOH and heavy drift, bang, bang, "Oh I give up. I'm going home."

One of these days I must invest in a proper puller but this is the first time one hasn't just fallen of with a light tap.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:23 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
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Location: Western Australia
I managed to fit in a few minutes after work today:

Tadaaa!

Image
IMG_0107 by Uncle Flash, on Flickr

Perfectly good camera at home and I end up using my iphone. :roll:

Just tension up the Drmini puller and then use the old trick of slowly pouring two litres of boiling water over the centre of the flywheel. Return to tightening and the flywheel slides off easily.

A quick spin of the primary shows the gearbox turns smoothly. Maybe I can salvage something out of this? The crank won't turn at all but I think it's because of the rusted piston.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:23 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
Splitting the engine from the gearbox was almost too easy. Excuse the grainy photo but it was starting to get dark in the workshop.

From beneath in the dying light, the crank didn't look too bad.

Image
2014_02_26_2858 by Uncle Flash, on Flickr

Inside the gearbox looked good and bad.

Image
2014_02_26_2863 by Uncle Flash, on Flickr

There was no rust that I could see but that oily sludge is nasty. I'll give it a jet wash in the morning and strip it down tomorrow evening if I have time. The mechanisms seem to be okay and I can't see any missing teeth so I'm hoping that the expensive parts will be salvageable. I have no idea what I'm supposed to be looking for but I guess I'll see it once I get it clean.

Does anyone do a freshen-up kit for these?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 38141
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Karcraft does a gearbox overhaul kit for this box-
MSG20 - no diff parts
MSG21 - diff parts included.

They also do a gearbox bearing kit- `KIT4SYNCHRO'

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:12 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
Thanks. I prefer to buy from Australian businesses where I can.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:38 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
Okay, the differential has to come off first. Fairly straight forward but someone had made a right dog's breakfast of the shims.

Image
2014_02_27_2864 by Uncle Flash, on Flickr

The diff bearings felt 'bumpy' so they'll be the first item on the shopping list.

This bearing:

Image
2014_02_28_2867 by Uncle Flash, on Flickr

Someone's been in this gearbox before. You can see where they've tried to remove this bearing with a screwdriver or other universal tool. The cage is damaged but it didn't stop them from shutting the lot back inside. Out of sight, out of mind, hmm lads? I'll be grabbing the small puller from home then.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
When fitting the diff side covers, I put the box on its side with a small jack for support. This stops the shims falling down and getting trapped & bent like yours did, when the cover is being fitted.
Also, it's convention to put all the shims on the LH side. But I fit a .010" one to the RH side first, to compensate for the current .010" thicker black gaskets.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:31 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
This bloke shared the shims equally between each side. He's nothing if not fair. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:40 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
Posts: 215
Location: Western Australia
Here I am, blindy ripping parts off and writing down a shopping list when I suddenly realise the diff housing is for a remote change and not the magic wand. How did I not see that? I want to keep the wand and I'm sure a wand cover will fit the case but if I get one, will it require machining?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:50 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:11 pm
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Location: Western Australia
A quick search on Google got me the answer I didn't want to see.

Look out scrap metal bin, here it comes!

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