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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 4:00 pm 
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1360cc
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Don't bother with the steel shroud - the factory ditched it after 91.
Just get the rubber shroud that attaches to the radiator.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 9:55 am 
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998cc
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Okay thanks will do that.
Why did they ditch it ?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 9:58 am 
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So that the radiator can be removed with the engine still in place.
Takes about five mintes - remove top two screws, top hose, single bolt at bottom, and lift out.

With the steel shroud in the way you need to jack the left side of the engine up to get the radiator out.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:00 am 
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998cc
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One rubber shroud to be used :)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:30 am 
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Only problem is I'm not sure if they still make it.
If they dont, I have one here.
The 90s cars had a rubber shroud, late 80s cars had a sponge one.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 12:08 pm 
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998cc
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Had a brief search, the only rubber part I could find seems to be a dust 'belt' rather than a shroud or cowling.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:34 pm 
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Have now done a dummy install of the head and induction bits, not much room at the front and the air cleaner won't fit.
I'm not an expert but guess that an older car has a different sub frame and the motor sits a bit different in the car ??
There is nowhere on the set up to get a vacuum so I'm thinking of fitting a separate pump.
This is fine for the brake servo but also have to consider the crankcase emissions.
Also have a charcoal canister system for fuel vapour take-off which was burnt using the old intake manifold. Nowhere to do that with this set-up.
Any suggestions welcome.

Removed the rad and thermo fan and I can fit the alternator much lower by inverting the mount bracket (saddle mounted alternator) should be able to hold it in place with a turn buckle and retain the belt tensioner too :)
Two steps forward, one step back :(
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:46 pm 
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That looks really good - bit snug in the front though. You're right - the rover engines were a half inch further forward compared to earlier carby models.
This was only for clearance to the inlet manifold. What can could try though is using an early stabiliser bar which will lean the engine back by half an
inch at the top? Not sure how clever that would be for oil pickup but I did the opposite direction by that much with no problems.
I'm not sure about the idea of a separate pump for the servo vacuum - maybe the better thing would be to fit an earlier brake master thats not servo assisted
and fit softer pads?
Crankcase emissions and tank are easily solved: breathers.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:06 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I can't see the axis point clearly for the butterflies, but I can't see why a small thread for a barb fitting couldn't be machined in a throttle body...

Sexy looking head! I would love to set one up!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:16 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks for the ideas gents.
In reverse order, yes the take off for the servo is a plastic push fit
Would it not adversely affect the one piston ?
There is the MAP point, what about an adaptor there ?
A small pump kit from the states isn't so very expensive and could look quite neat.

I could run both crank and fuel fumes to atmosphere but isn't that illegal ?
Being a later car it should meet emissions standards ?
I like the idea of tilting the motor with a steady, would. Spacers be required on the mounts too ?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:20 pm 
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Location: West Lakes | S.A. | or in the RAA van!
There are small alternators available off of Japanese Diesels with a vacuum pump built in, might work?.

Ash.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:23 pm 
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Thanks Ash, have considered that. Main disadvantage is if the fan belt goes, no vacuum

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:04 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
The brake booster doesn't affect the available braking performance when it loses vacuum, it just feels a little more wooden, so you needn't worry about a loss of belt, or booster vacuum with stopping the car.

As for the mapping on one cylinder, you will find you brake with the accelerator off (at idle). The butterfly is shut, and the cylinders are not being used. All they're doing is creating drag on the drive train.

The servo recharges itself when you lift your foot off the brake, almost instantly.

When you put your foot on the accelerator again, the booster is charged, the one way valve in the booster is shut holding that pressure, and requires nothing the manifold.

The booster will not draw anything from the manifold again until after the next braking cycle, and again will recharge itself virtually instantaneously.

The booster port is not utilised under load at all. Only when the butterflies are shut, and next to no work is being performed by the engine. You don't need to worry about its presence and the fuel mapping.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:53 pm 
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Thanks for that Mick. I have made a dummy alternator using a large tin.
Will take it down to the alternator man and see if they can supply something to fit that has a pump.
Do you know (approx) how much gas is produced by the crankcase and fuel vapour post charcoal canister ?
Do you think it would be safe to plumb into the throttle bodies to be burnt ?
Could have a narrow manifold like a fuel rail into two or all four.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:01 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
The roadworthy gents would probably like it to be all fed into the intake manifold, and the car will smell less.

All minis with crankcase vent fed the entire 100% back into the intake manifold, no charcoal canister required.
Cooper S is an obvious easy example with the PCV on the intake manifold, but many more went through via the air filter case

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