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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 6:02 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
timmy201 wrote:
I want to get some proper metal CV ties rather than the plastic zip ties that came in the kit. 

Tim, Bunnings actually sell the stainless steel ties you are after. Just can't remember where they are - maybe the electrical section.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 6:03 pm 
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clip wrote:
timmy201 wrote:
I want to get some proper metal CV ties rather than the plastic zip ties that came in the kit. 

Tim, Bunnings actually sell the stainless steel ties you are after. Just can't remember where they are - maybe the electrical section.
I tried those on CVs, they don't stay tight and make a mess...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 7:06 pm 
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I was thinking of the specific ties for CV boots. You need a specific tool to tighten them up properly

There are some driveshaft repair shops around here too, so another option is to ask them if they'll be able to clamp them up for me.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 8:04 pm 
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Some parts stores might be able to supply the ties, a pity the boots didn't come with them.
The CV tie tool doesn't seem too dear @ $25 the shop might end up charging you that much.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 8:34 am 
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clip wrote:
timmy201 wrote:
I want to get some proper metal CV ties rather than the plastic zip ties that came in the kit. 

Tim, Bunnings actually sell the stainless steel ties you are after. Just can't remember where they are - maybe the electrical section.


I'm guessing - Plumbing...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 10:34 am 
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One of the missing pieces in the puzzle was a timing cover, luckily Trevor had one spare. I’m not sure what model this one came off originally but it’s got the timing marks on the front which makes life much easier
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It was actually really clean so it took no time at all to get it painted and ready to go. I’ll just need to put in the new seal and then it’s ready to be installed
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 12:06 pm 
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I find the periphery to what's actually being photographed can be of interest.

Your bench looks typical of mine and others I've seen. The odd socket, steel ball, obligatory rag and oil stains, a few nuts and washers that came off something but can't remember what, feeler gauge so it looks to an observer like you are doing a precise job and a shifter for when that 3/8" open end spanner goes missing, AGAIN. :)

timmy201 wrote:
Image


That cover looks like a later one with embossed reinforcing channels around the edge to fix the poor gasket sealing issue.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2019 3:00 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
I find the periphery to what's actually being photographed can be of interest.

Your bench looks typical of mine and others I've seen. The odd socket, steel ball, obligatory rag and oil stains, a few nuts and washers that came off something but can't remember what, feeler gauge so it looks to an observer like you are doing a precise job and a shifter for when that 3/8" open end spanner goes missing, AGAIN. :)

That cover looks like a later one with embossed reinforcing channels around the edge to fix the poor gasket sealing issue.

I try to be organised and clean but it often doesn’t turn out that way! Let’s see:
I use a layer of cardboard on top of the workbench to try and contain the mess - doesn’t always work
Always need extra pot joint balls just in case I lose any :D
Don’t mind the 11 & 13mm sockets, they definitely weren’t being used because I can’t find the right imperial ones
Nuts & washers are from the rocker assembly, as is the split pin
Pink texta as I’ve lost the black one
Feeler gauge was actually used for the rocker arm clearances honest!

Doing a search these covers were fitted to later Clubman engines, I wonder if it lines up with the notch on the harmonic balancer...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 8:48 pm 
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I tried to shim the primary gear yesterday. Using the best primary gear and the thickest thrust washer I still had too much end float. The C clip isn't a tight fit in the crankshaft, so for now I've ordered in a new C clip, then I'll be able to determine which size thrust washer I need
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:22 am 
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I did this job recently and found the C washer about 0.124" thick while the groove in the crank was about 0.135" wide. So when you fit it up to measure your clearance, make sure the C washer is seated in the groove furtherest away from the engine, ie, closest to the crank taper, otherwise your measurements won't be right. You are doing a great job with this project BTW.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 8:48 am 
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justminis wrote:
I did this job recently and found the C washer about 0.124" thick while the groove in the crank was about 0.135" wide. So when you fit it up to measure your clearance, make sure the C washer is seated in the groove furtherest away from the engine, ie, closest to the crank taper, otherwise your measurements won't be right. You are doing a great job with this project BTW.

Thanks Steve. Mine had nearly exactly the same dimensions - 0.124" (on the thick potion) and 0.135" on the crank. I had used 2 C clips, they look like they've been run both directions so it is a couple thou thinner where it locates on the crank.

Another thing I've checked is the thickness of the backing ring. Mine both measure around 0.159" and the new ones are quoted at 0.164".

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 9:32 am 
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Depending on what gap you end up with, let us know what size thrust washer you need as I have a stack of these and might have one the right size.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:40 pm 
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After checking with the new C clip it looks like I’ll need around a 0.120” thrust washer for 998-1098. If anyone has one I’m happy to swap/buy it!

Mine is 0.116 according to my vernier calipers. Current end float is 9 thou
0.119” would be 6 thou clearance
0.122” would be 3 thou

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 5:52 pm 
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Ill check what i have Timmy .



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:54 pm 
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I had some C washers made that are .200" thick - I then surface ground one to suit the crank after I'd filed it square

I have some spares if needed

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