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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
I'm guessing I would need this style housing for the 4 sync though?
http://new.minimania.com/msgThread/1089 ... and_4_sync

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:47 pm 
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Location: Brisbane QLD
Oh gotcha , makes sense ... I think this an old magic wand case number 22g68

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1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:59 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
No, still looking for a diff housing..

John Smidt had a bunch of old gearboxes last time I was there. You could try him.

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 4:54 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I have a couple of 4 synchro remote diff housings here, one has the socket thingy in that the puddin' stirrer gear lever ball sits in.
[edit] it's out of a pov pack Clubman.

You can have the housing + socket thingy for postage.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Wed Sep 02, 2015 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
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Location: Brisbane
Looks like an 850 box.

Timmy is looking for the all syncro type of diff housing. Early Moke, pov Mini K and pov Mini Clubman/van.

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 5:12 pm 
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That would explain the half early body lying upside down close by when I picked it up out of the bush ;)

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1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
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- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:33 pm 
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After a bit more reading and asking questions I've got a complete 850 diff housing (magic wand) which fits nicely onto the 4 sync remote box. I'm still yet to decide if I'll use it on the 1100 engine, I might try and test drive someone's car with the 850 shift before I commit to it. I'd add some extra engine steadies too if I'm not using the remote shift.

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I do like the idea of it looking like a standard 850 inside, but having some twin carbs and other goodies under the bonnet.

Next up I want to strip down the 4 x gearboxes to see if the gears are any decent. Is there anything to check/measure before they get stripped apart?

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 3:29 pm
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Location: Brisbane QLD
That looks sweet !
Decided to go the same route with the first build . 4 speed with MW changer so am interested on how you go with yours ;)

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Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:51 pm 
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Timmy, apart from broken teeth etc, look hard at the dogs on 2nd gear, and inside the 1-2 synchro outer ring. When new they have vertical, angled faces with a point, but after lots of use (= gear crunching on downshifts) the faces get rounded off and the top corner wears down. In practice, this shortens the engaged length, this and wear makes it prone to jumping out of gear on overrun.
New 2nd gears for remote 4 synchro boxes are NLA, so fit the most handsome one (and synchro outer ring) you can find. :)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: 1098 Engine Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:00 pm 
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I've got the first gearbox apart. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, as it wasn't spinning as expected. The baulk rings were stuck to the gears and not spinning properly

1st gear:
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2nd gear. Has a little wear on the tapered section
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3rd gear
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4th
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In pulling it apart I managed to unseat the 3/4 selector and lose one of the balls trying to get it back together :lol:

They're quite tricky to get photos of, so I might see if I can get someone to check them out once I get the other gearboxes apart. I haven't been able to get the pinion nut undone on the next box as it's really tight!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:47 pm 
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Some of those smaller teeth look a little mashed. :(

I've just stripped my first gearbox and too had trouble undoing the pinion nut. Ended up strapping the box upside down to the workbench with a couple of ratchet straps and a really long bar about two meters long. Plus something to prop the ratchet up nice and steady to act as a bit of a counter lever. That seemed to loosen the nut from its seating position! I've got some photos I'll have to chuck up later.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 4:31 am 
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From an absolute novice... Here is how I undone the extremely tight Pinion Nut!
Strapped the box upside down to a solid bench, propped up the extension bar and ratchet with what ever I could find to assist with the leverage.
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Then leant on it with a really long solid bar! She soon come loose and didn't put up much of a fight with this set up. :D
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Hey presto one loose pinion nut.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 3:33 pm 
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I leave the box right side up now and bolt a 2Mtr length of 150mm wide return channel to it.
I used to sit it under the back of the boat trailer then wind the jockey wheel up, but TK bought the boat!! :)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 5:12 pm 
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Thanks for the advice guys, I ended up using a bit of square tube and bolting it to the gearbox similar to drmini's method. Rather worryingly rod change gearbox number 2 had the pinion nut done up finger tight!
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Here's the bounty from this weeks work:

3 empty rod change boxes
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And four buckets of gears
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The remote gears came out of the 22G1128 box mentioned in the earlier posts above, and are the ones with detailed photos in my last post. They have some surface rust and wear

Rod #1 looked really good, the gears all moved nicely and shifted into gear well. The dog teeth look in good nick

Rod #2 was pretty rusty inside, baulk rings were locked up and the laygear teeth have some pitting too

Rod #3 looked pretty good too, although the 1/2 selector fork was very worn

Now to pick the best bits for the remote gearbox!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 6:57 pm 
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I've had some help from a local guy who has helped me pick the best bits for the gearbox. The case now needs a good clean out before I can start putting i all back together :P
Image
The 850 housing fits on the remote case perfectly too, nothing to worry about there. I've cleaned it all up this afternoon and re-greased it.
Image

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