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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 7:36 am 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
HI Tim
It's a little hard to see but have you got the cam bearing in the right way?, it looks like you have the round hole on the side
it goes to the top and the long slot goes to the side, your doing a great job with your build.
Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 8:00 am 
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GR wrote:
HI Tim
It's a little hard to see but have you got the cam bearing in the right way?, it looks like you have the round hole on the side
it goes to the top and the long slot goes to the side, your doing a great job with your build.
Graham Russell

Thanks Graham. I’ve just double checked and I’ve got the small hole on the top and slot on the side. The photo just caught the edge of the slot. Thanks for checking, I’ve heard it’s a common thing to get wrong

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:41 am 
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I've test fit the cam and new duplex timing gears and they all fit great. I'll need to paint the timing end plate before I can put the timing gears in for good. The oil pump needs to be bolted up, but has been test fitted and all OK.

One of the next jobs to finish was the rocker assembly as it's needed to torque the head down. I pulled apart two assemblies and one set had much better condition rocker arms.
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The old rocker shafts were pretty worn on both sets so I ordered in a new "heavy duty" shaft
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Putting them back together is very easy especially if you take photos, I'll need to get some better split pins for the end as I only had some thin ones in the garage.
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All looks good on the head. I think the next major item is put the head on and check the cam timing. I think the engine has well and truly passed the "lift it off the engine stand by yourself" stage of the build, so I'll need to dig out the engine crane soon too
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Special thanks to drmini for answering all my questions the last couple of weeks :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 6:16 pm 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
I got a few more things done in the last week. First up I ordered some new ARP rod bolts to replace the standard ones.
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This meant that I could torque up the main bearing caps and the rods
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Three of my new rocker studs just wouldn't tighten up. One snapped and I pulled out the other two before they snapped. Old ones I had in stock worked fine!
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I put the head on and torqued it up. I checked the cam timing and I'll need to get an offset cam woodruff key to bring it back to the recommended spec.
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Today I needed to find some crank shims to get the spacing correct on the timing gears. It took me a while to find the stash, and I had 9 thin ones and 1 thick one. I needed 1 thick and 1 thin to get the spacing right
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A lot of time is spent cleaning and painting...
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The flywheel housing took ages to clean, now I need to install the new idler and outrigger bearings. Then the idler gear is shimmed and it's about time I can add the engine onto the gearbox..
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New studs and bolts all around makes it nice to work on :D
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:23 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
Tim the suspense is killing me! Getting sooo close now :D Can’t wait for the first test drive!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:49 pm 
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Hi, two things I just noticed in your recent photos ( and the view can deceive) that the rocker gear looks like it needs shims under the posts. Maybe the rocker is not sitting in the middle of the valve.you can test this .
In another picture of the end of the gearbox it looks like the casing has a big burr where the idler gear shim fits, its easier to look now than later ,unless my eyes view incorrectly
cheers Lindsay

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 10:31 pm 
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Location: Brisbane QLD
Looking great mate :)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 8:11 am 
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clip wrote:
Tim the suspense is killing me! Getting sooo close now :D Can’t wait for the first test drive!

Thanks Clip!

simonw wrote:
Looking great mate :)



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Thanks Simon!

lomin wrote:
Hi, two things I just noticed in your recent photos ( and the view can deceive) that the rocker gear looks like it needs shims under the posts. Maybe the rocker is not sitting in the middle of the valve.you can test this .
In another picture of the end of the gearbox it looks like the casing has a big burr where the idler gear shim fits, its easier to look now than later ,unless my eyes view incorrectly
cheers Lindsay

Hi Lindsay,

I've checked the idler gear face this morning and it does have a burr on the top edge. It looks like it's had a little impact, I'll make sure it is perfectly smooth before I fit anything further

I'm not 100% sure on the rocker post shimming. This is fully up:
Attachment:
48134708363_4a01efeafd_o_48134727531_o.jpg


And this is with the valve fully down
Attachment:
48134771527_8d74bd8776_o_48134727716_o.jpg


Thanks for checking :D


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Last edited by timmy201 on Tue Jan 16, 2024 8:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:07 pm 
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Hi Timmy, I think the rocker post is low and needs shims, and you can check it. This is my method , and others may wish to comment further.
I check one of the end rockers, 1 or 8. I take out the split pin and washer and undo the rocker adjusting screw fully. You can then generally remove the rocker, without the rocker face touching the valve. I then use bearing blue, but you can just colour the top of the valve with a texta. I then put the rocker back on, screw down the adjuster screw until the pad touches the valve, and turn the motor over a couple of times by hand. Then I undo the screw again, and try and slide the rocker off without the tip altering the "pattern" on top of the valve. It should show a narrow shiny line, close to the centre of the valve. I think yours will be towards the back. You want it in the centre and narrow, if you fit rocker post shims evenly under all 4 rocker posts, it would move that mark forward, and vice versa if you machined some off the bottom. Take a note of the width of the mark, hopefully it would narrow the width as well in going closer to the centre. Basically you are trying not to push the valve sideways too much as its going up and down, and thats why a lot of people fit roller rockers. I myself am not a fan of cheap roller rockers , and often use std BMC rockers for reliability If ts very close to the centre now, then my eyes deceive me, Cheers Lindsay

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:34 am 
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
Thanks Lindsay.

I've had a look this morning (I was able to do this without removing the rocker arm, just unwinding the adjuster) and done as you suggested. I've marked the extent of the contact on the valve below.
Attachment:
all-photos-1712_48140260033_o.jpg


Is there any way to estimate the thickness of the spacers needed to raise it up?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 11:47 am 
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Hi, those lines are too far apart. It should only be 1 - 3 mm i reckon Maybe you need to turn it over more, or try and do it whilst texta is wet. bearing blue is a bit jelly like
Looking on the web for pics i found this as a rough picture. I am assuming yours looks a bit like the overloaded one
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com ... ngeom.html

you could put thin shims or feeler gauges under the post to get an idea GR has thin and thick shims, but others will have them too

or maybe someone has botched up rocker pad radius, or they need reco. Lets see what underside of rocker looks like

cheers Lindsay

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1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:10 pm 
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I’ll check them again and see if it’s the same. The rocker arms were a good used set and haven’t been refinished - I will have to double check how the pads look

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:25 pm 
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I think the rocker arms will need to get refinished. I checked across most of the valves this morning and they are inconsistent. They don't seem to have much wear but a couple have marks that can be felt by my fingernail

I had a bit of time today so I cleaned up the pot joints, painted, regreased and assembled them. I want to get some proper metal CV ties rather than the plastic zip ties that came in the kit. 
Image
 
The driveshafts also got a good scrub and coat of paint. 
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2019 7:56 pm 
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All looks great Timmy, I am assuming you have checked the clearance between the pot joint and the side cover bushes. Often overlooked!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2019 8:40 pm 
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Scoop wrote:
All looks great Timmy, I am assuming you have checked the clearance between the pot joint and the side cover bushes. Often overlooked!!

Hi Scoop, we matched up a really good set of side covers with the pot joints. Just need to clean up the side covers and order in the diff bearings and I can finish off the backside of the gearbox..

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