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 Post subject: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:03 pm 
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998cc
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Thought I might as well start an engine build thread and separate it from the mini Matic thread of got going elsewhere.

I have the original 998 matching number engine out of the Matic. It's just running a standard 202 head with hardened seats ( as I'm led to believe) it is still complete from when I bought it so I haven't stripped and checked yet.

Just got hold of a 10Y Morris 1100 engine, yet to strip that as well and see if it has a 12 G 82 crank and what condition overall it is in, whether it's good for a rebuild or not.
Image

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Simonw
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1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:46 pm 
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All syncro (?) Mini gearbox. Isn't Timmy chasing the selector bit?

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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:55 pm 
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TK wrote:
All syncro (?) Mini gearbox. Isn't Timmy chasing the selector bit?

Timmy is chasing the remote diff housing, but with the pov pack bits to make up a 4 synchro non-remote shift.
I'm sending him a housing with the ball socket fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:59 pm 
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The 1100 had the rubber plate between the diff housing and remote extension too?

Good to see another 1100 build in the works. Mines a very long term project, especially with the current engine running so well at the moment!

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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 6:29 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
The 1100 had the rubber plate between the diff housing and remote extension too?



Morris 1100 and 1100S (and derivatives like MG1100 etc) had the sandwich mounted remote. No Minis did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:44 pm 
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1275cc
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what shift is in the photo?

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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:50 pm 
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TK wrote:
what shift is in the photo?

Mini that has been modified.


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:54 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
TK wrote:
what shift is in the photo?

Mini that has been modified.


yeah... looks a bit odd doesn't it....

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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:46 pm 
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998cc
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Was off a rear engine buggy . They cut the housing and ran a long rod to the front

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:00 pm 
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998cc
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Ok so here's the deal .
I have read all the "what head to stick on what posts . "
I have these
Image

So
My options are to stick a 202 head on which I have off the original car . It has :

- all the valves and springs
- rocker setup
- hardened seats

Or
This crusty 940 which will need

- additional valves ( do to the obvious absence currently ;)
- a good clean etc.

Questions :
#1
The 202 by various opinions will require a lot of grinding to match flow properties of 940 Problems : I don't have $$$$ to spend on grinding , I don't have dremels... Bits... Patience.
Will the cost of renovating the 940 and adding valves and faff be the same as investing coin into a 202? Comparable or not even close ?

#2
If I go 940 , and subsequently pocket the block , will a small bore head ever be able to be put back on the block? Reason being Im tossing up whether to use the original numbered block (matic) or not


Have a 1 3/4 Su coming my soon from mini16
And a few other members backing me up with cranks should I need them .
Great little community this , so just want to say a big thank you for the advice and practical help . Really appreciate it :)

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:15 pm 
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I would not put a 12G940 on a 1220 that's going in an auto. Because, you need all the low down torque you can get, as the stock torque converter stall speed is so low. For the same reason, big duration cams are out.

As for porting the 202 as GR did, not a lot of grinding work is needed. Most of the head work is machining- fit K liners in the guides, unleaded inserts, recut the seats, etc.

re your q about gaskets, yes a stock gasket will still fit on. But, it'll overhang the 68mm bores. So, NFG.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 8:56 am 
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998cc
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Thanks doc .
What are these k liners you speak of?

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:00 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
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Location: san remo nsw
k liners are little inserts they fit in valve guides. made to take up wear but some 'racers' like them as it can improve valve stem lubrication and cut down on friction. I would fit new guides but thats just personal preference.

http://cylinderheadshop.com/k-line-guide-liners/


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:26 am 
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998cc
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Thanks for your input Peter . Interesting read

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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 Post subject: Re: 1220 auto build
PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 7:01 pm 
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GR likes fitting K liners in road motors, there have been instances lately (here & in UK) of bronze guides and the (chinese made) cast iron guides grabbing valves. This can cause serious engine damage.
K liners give better lube and can run closer clearance.

If fitting either bronze or cast iron guides, you DO need to run a solid 9/32" reamer through to size them after fitting.
Bronze guides do close up during fitment, and `some' iron ones sold now are too tight. So it's not worth the risk to just throw them in there and assemble.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.:mrgreen:


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