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 Post subject: Subframe allignment Help
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 5:22 pm 
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I've nearly finished the disasembly of my Cooper S.
Once I get the shell grit blasted I'll start the re-assembly. :D

I saw a mention of someone in Vic that has a jig. I've seached but can't find the thread.

From the look of the floor shes had a hard time and the front guards virtually fell of so I'd like to make sure the subframes (especially the front) are true before I start the bodywork.

Any help appreciated.

Ken

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Last edited by Hawken on Mon Oct 17, 2016 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Subframe allignment.
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 4:08 pm 
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Looks like I'll have to try another tack.

Does anyone have a drawing or measurements I can work off?

My manual has drawings af a chassis jig and all the pickup points but no dimensions, :(

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:58 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
don't think I've heard of a jig, but you can measure the subframe and compare it to the dimensions they give for the subframes in the manual... the early edition of SP #64 (engine on the cover) has them in the 'Body' section

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 9:07 pm 
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dimensions aren't necessarily useful as effectively most of these cars were hand built.

Adjustments to panel gaps and fit was done with wooden blocks and leverage.

What's important is how square the suspension pick up points are to each other and the diagonal measurements of the subframes front to back.

If you have a nice flat garage floor then grab a plumb bob and some chalk so you can start scribing out points.

level the shell in both directions then start chalking off reference points on the floor.

Move the shell out the way and measure diagonally, and down the sides (essentially measuring a box with an x in it) if the diagonals match each other and the left and right lengths match eachother then you should be square.

measuring the subframes for square is much easier but essentially the same process. Could be beneficial to measure the subframes while bolted to the car.

I can't tell you how accurate the measurements should be, there was probably a, tolerance at the factory . Maybe one of the more seasoned blokes can help out.

I recently checked some subframes I picked up for square, they were pretty close given my craptacular measuring method (tape across the diagonals) so I called it good.

Remember, built with jigs and adjusted with blocks of wood. It's not uncommon to get different suspension settings left to right (expect infact).

https://www.google.com.au/search?ie=UTF ... vn_viCM%3A

plenty of information about.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:20 am 
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Thanks for the help Guys.

I'll keep an eye out at Bendigo Swap Meet for the manual with the engine on the cover.

The floor in the shed is fairly level so the images with dimensions should be enough to get me close.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:54 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
This drawing is in the forum. We have the manual online in teh How-To room here: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=84427
It is in section R (Body).

Feel free to download the whole manual. Its free ;)

I created one out of timber on my garage floor from the drawing. I'm sorry I don't have an image, but pine is a great building medium, and its cheap if you are making a one off.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:00 pm 
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Thanks Mick. Downloading now.

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