Here is a video constant throttle https://vimeo.com/190660137


It's driving me nuts

New leads in plugs stealth box inc distributor and coil

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

More video this time the timing it seems to be jumping around

Note I have set the black box to 0 no advance

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

Distributor body well clamped?

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Double check all spade connections are tight and they are well attached to the wire.

Check wired up dissy weights have not come loose.

Spark plug bodies porcelain and inside outside of dissy cap squeaky clean and dry.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

This time with video https://vimeo.com/190672686

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

Hmmm I haven't checked the weights I'll do that

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

I got rid of all spade connectors on the coil, replaced With ring terminals. Loose or frayed connections are a perennial source of misfires.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sounds rough as guts...you could throw another set of plugs at it...

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Ring connectors are a good idea
Here are the plugs one is not like the other

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

also the timing seems to jump around a fair amount

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

I noticed this too, with a timing belt and Pulsar electronic dizzy, my timing was steady as a rock all the way from idle.
With the black box on the dialback timing light `shows' it moving around.
However......
1. It idles much better.
2. It goes harder.
3. Fuel economy is much improved.

So, I'm not sure the timing `moving around' is real, both the black box and dialback timing light use similar spark delay technology. Electronics of both may be interacting.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I pulled the dizzy out yesterday and noticed the module did not have the same gap all the way around to the rotor button so I adjusted that.

The video is a bit hard to hear it is actually idling nicely and goes hard and economy is now awesome. Those plugs I through in just to check it wasn't the plugs I am running iridium plugs in it. By the way as a side note the iridium plugs make a noticeable difference to power.

I'll keep hunting thanks for the help might see if I can find a pulsar dizzy or I might go dizzy free if it drives me nuts enough

_________________
1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

and sending a confused waveform to the Tacho...

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

With a black box fitted, Pulsar dizzy works no better or worse than a Lucas with electronic module. I'm currently using a 43D with powerspark module.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.