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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 4:36 pm 
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quick update. The old 998 is out of the mini so that I can pull the gearbox for a rebuild and to slap under the twin cam. Can confirm you don't need an engine crane or a good back to pull the engine out! 43 years of schmutz to be cleaned out of the engine bay for a quick coat of paint to tidy the place up is the plan - gloss black to hide all the impending oil leaks ;)

Imagehttps://flic.kr/p/2gi39C4


I am still dubious about the oil return widget. It's tidy enough but I am contemplating adding a breather or at least have -AN fittings vice the hose barbs...

Imagehttps://flic.kr/p/2gi39Bh

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 6:17 pm 
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Won't the rubber pipes melt!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2019 2:53 pm 
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cooperess wrote:
Won't the rubber pipes melt!


shouldn't... my heater hose is closer to my extractors than that

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2019 8:08 pm 
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Interesting about the heat affecting the hoses. The heater hose is just a mock up but it did get me thinking. I've decided that I will go to AN fittings, redesign the return widget and incorporate breather into it. A breather there and one on the bell housing should do the job just fine.

Quick update while I am here - engine bay got a quick respray to keep the newcastle rust at bay. Keeping with the bumblebee theme. Apologies for the rubbish photo

Image65286292_452350908646221_4192015452446130176_n

Crank and pistons are in now too. With standard thrust washers it's much too tight and rotation of the engine is way too stiff. Plenty of assembly lube but still no good.
Has anyone encountered a brand new crank with standard size washers being too tight? What's my best course of action from here?

Cheers,
Joe

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 12:34 pm 
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cooperess wrote:
Won't the rubber pipes melt!


No, but not good with oil!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 12:39 pm 
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jpodge wrote:
quick update. The old 998 is out of the mini so that I can pull the gearbox for a rebuild and to slap under the twin cam. Can confirm you don't need an engine crane or a good back to pull the engine out! 43 years of schmutz to be cleaned out of the engine bay for a quick coat of paint to tidy the place up is the plan - gloss black to hide all the impending oil leaks ;)

Imagehttps://flic.kr/p/2gi39C4


I am still dubious about the oil return widget. It's tidy enough but I am contemplating adding a breather or at least have -AN fittings vice the hose barbs...

Imagehttps://flic.kr/p/2gi39Bh


When I was going to use this type of return everyone (Dr) said there would be to much blow back from the crank. What's changed?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 5:25 pm 
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dalmeny wrote:
When I was going to use this type of return everyone (Dr) said there would be to much blow back from the crank. What's changed?


I don't think that the spinning crank would stop oil draining down into the block. As the crank doesn't sit in the oil it shouldn't be "flicking" large quantities of oil to the extent that it will stop oil draining under gravity like I have set up at the moment.

I might be completely wrong - but that's the joy of building engines and doing things we haven't done before.

Update to come in a few weeks. It's been a busy couple of weeks and it's coming along now! PS - I re-designed the oil return.... again!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 8:22 am 
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jpodge wrote:
dalmeny wrote:
When I was going to use this type of return everyone (Dr) said there would be to much blow back from the crank. What's changed?


I don't think that the spinning crank would stop oil draining down into the block. As the crank doesn't sit in the oil it shouldn't be "flicking" large quantities of oil to the extent that it will stop oil draining under gravity like I have set up at the moment.

I might be completely wrong - but that's the joy of building engines and doing things we haven't done before.

Update to come in a few weeks. It's been a busy couple of weeks and it's coming along now! PS - I re-designed the oil return.... again!


The Doc may have been more concerned about a little blow-by pressurising the sump :idea:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 6:09 pm 
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This is it! I'm finally calling my oil return widget finished! More or less 6 months of weekends in the making - summarised in a couple of pictures....

The last one wasn't going to cut it with just hose barbs and no breather. Without wanting to knock up another prototype - I had a go with some CAD designs and came up with this which was still able to be made in my shed with the stuff and tools I have.

Image

Which turned into this...

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Image

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Cool! Ordered some -8 AN fittings having not much experience with all the different types of hoses and fittings. Safe to say this size and type of fitting wasn't going to work...

Image

That's okay - i'll keep these fittings for the next bigger project. I thought I would downsize to -6AN and try the pushlock type of hose from aeroflow and be a bit more accurate with the angles they needed to be. Took a while but I ended up at this; (there's a photo below of a blue line - this gave me the idea for the pushlock type hose. Super easy to use and low profile fittings)

Image

Then
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Clears the exhaust nicely and the oil feed line is in too. Just need to make up a little P clamp to hold it properly and out of the way. I'll feed the line with the black fitting to a catch can / breather set up.

Image

Finally happy with this set up. Hopefully the oil filler widget that will go on the bell housing wont be as difficult. I will work an oil return and breather into that too from the cylinder head.

In other news I had a play with the timing cover. Countersunk some screw heads and got everything sitting nicely.

Image

I also gave the 998 a pressure wash and degrease and pulled the gearbox off. The gearbox is in pretty good nic but I've got a reconditioning kit for it. Just waiting for the gearbox to come back from the machine shop where it's getting washed and also having a cam shaft getting the lobes ground off for the oil pump jack shaft.

Image

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Can anyone flick me a link for the T piece that I'll need for the oil feed line out of the block so that I can still run an oil pressure gauge? Can't seem to find that anywhere.

Image

Next up on the list is making a head gasket, rebuilding the gearbox. Stay tuned and like always - don't hold your breath!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 9:32 am 
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Fantastic design and prototyping work. You should be very proud of your achievements.

Of course it reminds me of those who really enjoy solving problems like you are doing but sometimes lose sight of the bigger picture, which is to actually get the power plant operational. :)

jpodge wrote:
Can anyone flick me a link for the T piece that I'll need for the oil feed line out of the block so that I can still run an oil pressure gauge? Can't seem to find that anywhere.

Is this what you are after? - https://minisport.com.au/mini-moke-oil-gauge-t-piece

I have one that's surplus to my needs so yours if you want it . Can post to you from Melbourne. It's a bit longer than the Minisport one and a bit scruffy but solid brass and will come up OK with a polish. Let me know.

Attachment:
Oil Pressure Adapter 1.jpg


Attachment:
Oil Pressure Adapter 2.jpg


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 9:41 am 
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Nice work on the oil drain!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:17 am 
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jpodge wrote:
Can anyone flick me a link for the T piece that I'll need for the oil feed line out of the block so that I can still run an oil pressure gauge? Can't seem to find that anywhere.


Not a fan of those 'T' pieces - they can and do crack, with obvious and expensive results.

Retrosport do an oil filter head with an optional fitting in the top - ideal location for your pressure sender.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2019 10:35 am 
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There’s also universal oil filter adapters like these
https://www.mishimoto.com.au/oil-plate- ... apter.html

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:31 pm 
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Thanks for the heads up with the oil widgets. I am going to stick with a basic T piece for simplicity.

Gearbox is completely stripped and I will start the rebuild process tomorrow. Everything is in pretty good nic, apart from 1st/2nd synchro that is very worn on one side as well as the corresponding baulk rings with rounded edges. Apologies for the 2nd rate photo! This would explain why it has always crunched downshifting into second gear unless it was so perfectly rev matched....
Image

This has always been a daunting task in my mind, but I am keen to get cracking with it. I've procrastinated a bit but once this is done it won't be too long (everything is relative okay don't get your hopes up) until the engine is in the car!!! woohoo!

Image

I also picked up the ECU - a Haltech Elite 550. Really looking forward to learning about using this piece of kit and wiring it all up. Only downside is that I will have to run wasted spark as I am only running a crank angle sensor and no cam angle sensor.

Stay tuned! I'll try and stay on top of this forum this year and keeping you all updated. The goal is to have it on the road midway through the year!

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:10 pm 
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Looking good Joe, you'll learn a lot rebuilding the gearbox! The Haltech will be a great bit of gear, hopefully once it's tuned it'll go really well and have a good cold start

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