Hi

Just wondering if anyone could tell me what it takes to convert to dry suspension??

Do i just have to find a dry front and rear subframe and swap them over or is there more to it

thanks

yea you do pretty sure we were just talking bout in another thread

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Stay Hydro..it is Better syspention
I have one of each......have a drive around in someone else dry...and you will enjoy the differance

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

reading some other posts they sound like a lot of trouble.
owned a van once with dry and it was'nt to bad.

I read some other posts but they dont say if its a clean swap of the subframes,
or do you have to change something for the shocks to fit

No idea mate...but I believe it will be more trouble than its worth

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

You can keep the wet subframes. And the top arms.
And the rear arms too- but the axles would need pressing out & changing to dry type so you can mount the lower end of the shocks. Easier to find some dry rear arms...

There are lugs inside the wet subframes to locate the hydro displacers- these need to be butchered a bit so the rubber cones will fit in instead. Then add a set of Hi-Los for height adjustment (or some dry trumpets) and away you go.

Oh- you will need some front shock mount brackets too, and drill the top arms out for the 3/8" shocky bolts.

I have a wet car (now with front shocks), and a dry one converted to wet. I do wonder why the P/O bothered...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

you can grind slots in the base of the rubber cones to fit in the lugs, so you can go back to wet at a later stage when you decide your back has had enough....

Dr mini

so thet top arms on the wet are the same as the dry apart from the size of the shock bolt is that right ?

Thanks mate

Almost. The lever ratio is less (so suspension is a little stiffer) with the wet arms. But they handle better. Old UK racers trick....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One damn good reason is - If you don't live in or near one of our capital cities, there is nowhere to go and have the system re-pressurised every time you do some work on the suspension or play around with ride heights.
Much easier to convert to dry with hilos, so that you can play with the set up until you get it right. Then set and forget.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Then you just make a pump out of a master cylinder.

As you do.. (I did) when you get sick of driving 8 miles & paying $50 for a pump up..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i had my mini k converted to dry at link auto, with exchange of my old wet frames i got the dry suspension setup for $1500ish with hi lo's and new shockers etc. i was so sick of the hydro that i cut them up and put valves on each one so i wouldnt get the pitching in acceleration. it made it better but i've always liked dry suspension.

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya