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 Post subject: Top arm removal.. how?
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:41 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Perth,WA
Gday once again. :lol:

ive got the rear hi los in and can feel a slight difference. definately looks better.

BUT the front is still standing tall..kinda awkward!!! :roll:

Anyway. to do the front, i read here its possible to take the top arm out so to avoid using a compressor. am i wrong??

how do i do it?? i did have a go, but was unsuccessfull.

thank you!!

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:54 pm 
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1275cc
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You've taken the 'rod' out that goes through the middle of it i assume? I'm not certain it's entirely necessary to split the top ball joint but it'll help with access.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:17 pm 
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848cc
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um..

what i did, was release the damper. undo the bolt holding the top arm to the wheel hub thing.

and nothing gave way..

what else must i do?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:27 pm 
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1275cc
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There is a bar/rod that passes through the middle of the arm that locates it in the subframe. It's what actually holds it there. Depending on which side it is that you want to remove the complexity will vary. I haven't removed one whilst the subframe has been in the car but I imagine the passenger side will be a little hard to get at as it will be in behind the radiator. Drivers side one shouldn't be that hard to remove.

As I said I haven't removed one whilst its the frame has been in the car and I haven't dealt with the mini motor in a little while so can't remember what is in the way of getting the 'rod' out. But they are the things you will need to remove.

FYI - The nut that you will need to remove is visible from the engine bay only.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:38 pm 
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1275cc
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This is a picture of a modified mini subframe but I have highlighted the bolts that you will need to remove.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:51 am 
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848cc
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okay cheers i guess ill give that a go then..

will keep you posted..

later..
K

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 3:17 pm 
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Image

theres a lil pic of what im trying to remove.

but i cant see how the arm will just slide out, if i remove the "rod". the trumpet should still be pushing down on it..as far as i can see..

the arm can not go DOWN once the rod is out, and thus allow the trumpet to fall..there is something under it.

dunnoooo??

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 3:38 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 3:51 pm 
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your top ball joint will not just slide off as it is locked with a taper.
to remove... either buy a ball joint tool 25 bucks from supercrap. if it does not work the first tim you need to load up the ball joint with the remover and then tap the loading bolt on the remover with a hammer
or if you are going to replace the ball joint you can fit the nut back on upside down to the ball joint, leave a 3mm clearance and use a lage hammer to tap the hell out of the nut so that they shock breaks the taper bond to gently release the joint.

to remove the inner pivot bolt:
there are two bolts on each pivot which hold a retaining plate. they are on the front side of the pivot. remove these. one has a nut the other is a taped hole
undo and remove the large nut on the inside (between firewall and subframe)
you can then push the pivot bolt towards the front of the subframe enough so that you can jiggle the upper suspension arm around so to remove the pivot bolt completely.
(I did this with the radiator removed)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:03 pm 
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You need to pop that top ball joint, get a ball joint splitter..

If you are putting hi-lo's in the front, just cut the trumpet in two and remove the rod holding the top arm in..

Make sure all the pieces go back together properly, check the bearings when it's out and for any wear on the shaft. Make sure when you reassemble to use new grease and not to get dirt in there, or you'll just grind it to bits..

Here are some pics i took when i did mine that may help you..
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Make sure while your there that you also replace the knuckle joints..and clean the hole it goes in on the top arm with some fine sandpaper if it's not smooth..the knuckle should be a nice slip fit..

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:39 pm 
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i did this exact same job today, i had to fit a new ball foot assembly cause the other one had worn through. i just smacked the front of the ball joint with a hammerand it came out, the real tricky bit was getting the top arm back in with the trumpet still attached to the donut, i got it in the end but now i am worried cause the car sits a bit higher on the passenger side now, could that be because of the new part or would it be cause either the front or back donut / trumpet / hi lo (for the back) isnt seated properly? sorry for this minor hijack

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 10:16 pm 
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Not sure if you have already done the job yet or not, But this might be handy to know.
To split ball joints. I undo the nut till its top is leval with the top of the thread.
Then belt the side of the housing that the ball joint passes through with BFH.
One good wack will do.. not fairy taps now, a sharp crack with a metal hammer. The balljoint will seperate and fall through till it hits the nut. Then you can undo the nut the rest of the way. I leave the nut on so that if i miss the housing and hit the thread it is protected by the nut.

Hope this is useful.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:45 am 
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i say use two BFH's

hold one against one side of the ball joint and crack it on the other side with the other one...



Michael works with two hammers, you know...;)

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