Ie the way the system is setup currently, the clutch-pedal-pushed; clutch-disengaged is still out at the right distance and at the nut stop. And the clutch-pedal-at-rest; clutch-clamped is still showing what looks like the right gap.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

And doc I'm running one of your spreaders. No circlip from memory. I think issue is a thrust bearing or something. Will look further.

And Simon, no fluid in the rubber boot.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

That gap looks a bit large to me.
It is meant to be measured without the return spring and with the arm being moved away from the clutch cover to take out any free movement. The gap is quoted at 20 thou of inch, which is much less that shown. Too large a gap means the slave cylinder has to a long way just to take up free movement before actually operating clutch disengagement.

I think this should be the first thing you do, If not broken check that the ball at bottom of arm is not worn flat on one side, also check that the clutch bearing carrier has not worn where the clutch arm pushes against it.

Whilst you are at it check all clutch clevis pins for wear.

JS

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

New lever arm, about 50 bucks, new bearing carrier, about 25 bucks, DIY job, labour = zero $'s.
(I am assuming you work on your mini like the rest of us, & your time is worth nothing!)
Much cheaper than taking your daily driver in for a dealer service (EG Mercedes Benz oil change, About $350-$500)

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1967 Cooper S - ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2. Engine reco WIP
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I think he needs to find out what the problem really is before he buys any parts (maybe unnecessarily).
We are offering thoughts/ideas that might be helpful to sort out the problem and find an answer.

That's fair enough, but from my experience those particular parts are well worn at this stage of any mini's life if they have not been replaced.
Also remember the ball end of the arm that slots into the carrier hardly ever get lubricated, and has a dog of a life.

Having just replaced a water pump with a new item (a lousy $48.50) because I thought I'd get away with recycling an old one from the back of the shed, I am quickly learning that using new parts will avoid disappointment and wasted time!

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1967 Cooper S - ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2. Engine reco WIP
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Except those clutch parts, old good condition ones are better than new junk!

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Good luck finding 50 y o ones in "good" condition.

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1967 Cooper S - ready for reg.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2. Engine reco WIP
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Cheers guys, had an unexpected interstate trip. Home now, so I'll get to problem solving through the week. I checked the arm earlier and the ball was intact, but didint inspect wear closely. I'll check the other things listed too.

In hindsight I remember noticing a vibration feel through the clutch pedal under light push taking the slack out of the pedal travel. So my bet at the moment is the bearing is cactus.

The mystery shall be solved soon

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

It could also be the thrust plate on the diaphragm isn't hardened. There were soft AP ones sold here a few years ago.
If buying a new release bearing plunger avoid the cheapo ones they are not hardened, and can't be because they are leadbrite steel or equivalent.
But they can be drilled and a hardened bush pressed in.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Peak ignition system fitted.

Here we go...



I snuck a quick look before work. Once the clutch arm was out, this plunger was freed to pull out......only the inner gaurd was stopping it from pulling all the way out. I wonder what I'll find inside...

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

that's messy
not a simple fix job like you would like
thrust bearing floating around inside the clutch housing

i would say that Either your throw-out-bearing has collapsed,

or your "Thrust-plate" (attached to the diaphram by a spring-clip) has disintergrated

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?