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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 12:33 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:14 am
Posts: 193
Location: Narre Warren, Melbourne
Appreciate the help everyone. Managed to remove it last night, made sure it was at TDC to ensure the C-clip wouldn't interfere. Used plenty of wd40 and oil and let it soak in for a few days.
It came off quite abruptly and with a huge bang that shook the garage.
Now to tackle the primary gear and oil seal.

Any tips of removal/refitting the gear and seal? Read that a tool is used for both but it's something I don't have.
Is it essential?


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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 1:16 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:08 am
Posts: 9
Location: Ballarat Victoria
850, the round plastic piece you can see on the gear is a dust cover and just slides off . The oil seal is behind this , you can lever the gear off by gently using a lever behind the splines and the seal will come off with it. Be careful because there is a thrust washer behind the gear which might come with it due to the oil inside. I used a special tool purchased from Minisport to protect the seal from the splines and to press it into place. Alternatively you can wrap the gear in tape and use a piece of pipe to drive the seal in . Cheers Phil.


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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39621
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I use a 3 leg puller from Supercheap to grip behind the splines. Put a thick cable tie around the legs and pull it tight so they don't slip out. As said the seal will come too.
I made a tapered alloy spline protector to fit the seal, but you can either wrap the splines in shim brass or use a stiff plastic bag pulled tight.

Easiest to fit seal to the gear as above, then slide gear onto crank. Then use a piece of PVC pipe and a block of wood to tap the seal in.
Black Rover MPI seals allegedly seal better than the red/orange ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 12:38 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:14 am
Posts: 193
Location: Narre Warren, Melbourne
Cool, Thanks MorrisPhil and DrMini. Great advice there.
I'll give this a go on the weekend.
Part of all this is to dismantle my A+ 998 and utilise my original 3 synchro magic wand on it.
Are these issues with using my pre verto clutch on the A+? (I have everything off my 850 engine that will be swapped - flywheel, pressure plate, wok cover, slave cyl)


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 10:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
How old is the 850 clutch, pre 1963 they used coil springs. If so I'd fit a diaphragm spring one instead.
Buy a Borg & Beck Cooper S clutch kit, you get the diaphragm, clutch plate and release bearing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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