Quick recap included below for the story to date if interested...



Now, the story continues...

I decided to go ahead with the centre oil pickup. Lucky I did because when installing it, I found this is the condition of the layshaft

Bearing destroyed:


Shaft:


I wonder how it all happened - maybe the swarf from the primary gear issue cause the layshaft to fail...Maybe they're unrelated issues...Maybe they all happened at the same time... I don't know. But it looks like a gearbox rebuild is on the cards.

If the main shaft is all fine, I might just refit standard stuff. If there is issues throughout, I might refit the box with the Minispares "Evo" stronger gearsets while I'm in there. Does anyone have experience or opinions on these?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

Also, I see there are two different layshafts claiming to be high quality. One Aussie made, here it is sold by Minisport Australia
https://minisport.com.au/mini-layshaft- ... rade-steel


And one from Minispares
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop


Any advice on the "Evo" gearset, the best layshaft to use or other comments welcome.
(It's a pre-a+ rod change 4 syncho FYI)

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Measure inside diameter of the cluster gear, mine did the same, the 50 year old S cluster had .033" wear. New layshaft was worn .022" in 20,000 miles. And the bearing cage in bits.
This layshaft was an Australian made one from MG Heritage.
I've been told Karcraft ones are currently made in UK by McLaren engineering, and are good. What's in mine now. With a new $500 S cluster gear. More expensive to repair the old one, as it's all hardened.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can get my hands on a NOS laygear cluster...maybe I should grab that and the UK made hardened layshaft.

I'm currently trying to decide whether I should tear down the main shaft to make sure it is okay. It feels smooth, turns well. If there are no signs of issues without dismantling should I leave as is? Or should I pull it apart to make sure it is all fine and cleaned out?

I am conscious there is a few hundred bucks worth of bearings to replace if I tear the main shaft down. Is it worth it to check condition and clean out possible swarf? Or should I leave well enough alone do you think?

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

If you don't take it apart and something else happens you will never forgive yourself. Given the size of the little fragments appearing on the bright orange glove, i wouldn't take a risk.- you might get away with reusing the two big box bearings.(the dear ones) - only my opinion

I bought a layshaft from Minispares and it was bent like a banana.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Really? Was that their you-beaut hardened shaft?
Tell me more context...

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

I got the same bent minispares one from a local supplier.

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Maybe the Aussie one is the way to go then. Jeez it's a bloody mine field trying to get good stuff.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Most of the layshaft needle bearings seem to be coming from China now. The boxes have a UK name, but my googlefu shows them originating from Beijing....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm having the same doubts with quality of gearbox and other bearings.
Is there any benefit in taking a sample of the "doubtful" bearing to a bearing supplier and buying a branded bearing based on the bearing dimensions and not the mini part number?

I replaced the unbranded roller bearings in a trailing arm overhaul kit with "Torrington B1316 USA" from a local bearing supplier. Also bought idler bearings and upper control arm bearings in Torrington - with and without cages.

For the layshaft bearings, I came across 2 of the larger bearings in SKF boxes - "K 20X26X17" dated 1986- but no small bearings. Am going to see if the local shop can supply a branded small bearing.

Buy NOS.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Definitely pull the box down, inspect and clean everything. Even a tiny bit of that swarf will ruin your day.

Gearbox now stripped down. Plenty of swarf in the box from the largest bearing.

Removed main shaft, all looks in good nick, can't see swarf but maybe there's traces in there.

The bearings I removed are still intact and could be reused. I'll replace the 1st motion / outrigger bearing (as I damaged it on removal) and the idler bearing (as it had swarf in it from disassembly process).

2 questions:

Should I replace all of the various shaft bearings anyway, just in case there is shavings inside?

How should I clean out the case and the parts prior to reassembly? Petrol, turps? Water? Brush?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

5 Star degreaser for the case and use a old stiff paint brush. Usually about five cans and three rinses should bring it up like new. Only use 5 Start.

For gears and shafts etc use kero.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

I had my case (and other bits) hydroblasted.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43