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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 4:28 pm 
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Got the head on today and there's no doubt that it felt very weird to be putting gasket goo on little cut out pieces of BK450 head gasket to fit over the old pushrod holes as well as the steam vent holes. Gasket goo on a head gasket was the equivalent feeling of watching someone put milk in with the teabag before the hot water. I used Permatex Ultra Copper gasket goo.

I have seen/heard of people using head gasket spray (I think duplex does a product for this) that is supposedly used to seal head gaskets better, but the permatex goop should do it.

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The breather/filler is next on the list of to do's. One line is going to go from the head to the filler, and another line will go to a catch tank. Should be straight forward and a little easier/simpler than the last oil thing I made up.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2020 12:09 pm 
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Time for an update of the progress over the last few weeks;

Oil filler widget has been made up. An oil return line from the head and a brass fitting to take a line to a breather/catch tank.

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Pretty happy with how that turned out.

Next up is sorting out the mounting of the top passenger side engine mount. I lowered the engine into the car for the first time and marked up of the cam pulley plate where the bracket will mount up too. No engine crane - no worries.

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I also picked up a fancy MED Engineering damper and trigger wheel. Currently waiting on my Champion neighbour who is turning up a custom spacer that I will need to make it all work and clear the other pulleys. Times like this I wish I had a lathe!

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2020 12:26 pm 
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Very good progress! How much more work do you have to do before the engine is in for good?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:45 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
Very good progress! How much more work do you have to do before the engine is in for good?


Thanks Timmy. Not too much to go. I will make up a coolant return line from the cylinder head as the current one will foul on the alternator, but other than putting new inner CVs on there isn't anything else significant.

Col made up the spacer for me on his lathe and now the trigger wheel clears the timing belt pulleys nicely. I had to move the idler as the bolt was fouling the trigger wheel teeth so it's now sitting higher on the egg plate. I think I remember seeing it like this on Steve's build so it shouldn't cause an issue but it is strange that the idler is now only eld on by the center bolt.....

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Extremely happy with the MED pulley - exxy but cool and very high quality.

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Top engine mount bracket is mounted after the height of where it is to be mounted after dropping the engine into the bay earlier in the week.

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When I get told to isolate progress will be through the roof!! Next update should have the engine in the car for good! (at least until the key gets turned)

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:41 am 
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Looking good! It’s damn handy having a good neighbour like you do! If you can’t have a lathe, just live next to one!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 1:23 pm 
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braad wrote:
Looking good! It’s damn handy having a good neighbour like you do! If you can’t have a lathe, just live next to one!


Thanks braad - yep spot on. Like many others that have helped me with this build, I can't thank Col enough!

Coils and injectors are next on the never ending purchase list. Can anyone recommend suitable coils that fit the head (corolla perhaps?) as well as injectors that fit the BMW rail? I've got the stock injectors at the moment, but granted they were made for a 1200cc engine and have seen some older threads with dead links to bigger injectors and coils. Any recommendations? Cheers!

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 4:21 am 
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If you dont mind a pom answering here you go, the std injectors are rated at around 148cc which if you run them at 100% duty cycle ( not recommended) can just about do the job if you run them at 3 bar , but the later fuel rail with the built in pressure regulator is set at 2.5 bar so really wont work, the best bet is to get some high independence injectors at around 250cc if you use the original fuel rail, if you use an earlier fuel rail without the built in pressure regulator ie K1100 etc and use a regulator set at 3 bar then injectors around 200cc will do the job. As for the injectors themselves just look for a car with a 4 cyl engine that makes around 140+ bhp they will do the job, it may be a case of changing the o ring sizes and spacing the fuel rail but not too much hassle

Shooter


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 6:24 pm 
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shooter63 wrote:
If you dont mind a pom answering here you go, the std injectors are rated at around 148cc which if you run them at 100% duty cycle ( not recommended) can just about do the job if you run them at 3 bar , but the later fuel rail with the built in pressure regulator is set at 2.5 bar so really wont work, the best bet is to get some high independence injectors at around 250cc if you use the original fuel rail, if you use an earlier fuel rail without the built in pressure regulator ie K1100 etc and use a regulator set at 3 bar then injectors around 200cc will do the job. As for the injectors themselves just look for a car with a 4 cyl engine that makes around 140+ bhp they will do the job, it may be a case of changing the o ring sizes and spacing the fuel rail but not too much hassle

Shooter


Thanks Shooter - I ended up ordering some Bosch 775 which seem to be pretty popular here in Aus. For the ignition coils,I was given some coils from an M3 and they were miles too long. I went ahead and ordered some coils from a Yaris so hopefully these fit.

I had to revisit the location of the timing belt tensioner because having it mounted too high meant that it could foul on the water pump, even after grinding the web away. Not wanting to risk it, I moved it back down to where Matt designed the egg plate for it to go - who knew this would be the best spot for it? :P To get it all to fit together I had to take about half of the top of the bolt off and find the thinnest washer I could find so that it cleared the trigger wheel. I thought while I was at it that I didn't have a reference point for a timing light - so I added that in too. Each tooth on the trigger wheel represents 10' so it should work pretty well I guess....

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I set up the crank position sensor and times like these I am thankful for keeping old piston gudgeon pins to make spacers for things like this cut down perfectly to size.

This weekend I think it's safe to say I made some progress! Before fitting the engine i filled it with oil and drove the oil pump off a drill and I was surprised how much oil was pumped up to the head through that single oil feed line. Wasn't long before the head was pretty much drenched! Also made up a coolant pipe for the cylinder head that clears the alternator too.

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I went to give the radiator a clean out and it had busted a pretty bad leak along the bottom where the core joins the bottom cap so will have to replace that. While today I feel I made some progress in installing the engine, the list of things left to do is pretty long before the key is turned. Next up though is sorting out the top front side engine mount to clear the timing belt, install the radiator and sort out fuel feed and return. Then......... WIRING!!

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 8:42 am 
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It's about time for an update, and like many it's been a busy last few weeks in the shed. First on the list of to-do's was sort out the fuel system.

A return line would be needed for this injection setup and unfortunately the tank that was in the car was one that did not have a drain bung that I could tap into. I added one up the top in a position that I thought would cause least disturbance to the fuel float from fuel returning back in to the tank. I also lopped off the original feed tube as it was probably too small for this application. I added the same 1/4" BSPT screw in fitting to the bottom there. Silver soldered in by a radiator repair place.

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Fuel lines were run and the fuel pump and filters were installed on the rear subframe. I've since added rubber grommets to protect the fuel lines as they go up into the boot.

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(in this photo you can see an extra breather that I added that goes from the old dist hole to the filler neck -> catch can that you can see in some other photos mounted on the firewall)

I didn't think that a swirl pot/surge tank was really that necessary for this build. It'll be seen to be believed but if I needed to add one in, it would be relatively simple to plumb it in. Once the fuel tank was installed it all looked nice and neat.

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Ignition coils from a Toyota Yaris were recommended for me to use in the build and they fit the head pretty well and will be relatively easy to wire up (only requiring 3 out of the 4 pins to be used). I just needed to make up a mounting plate for them to keep them secure. Some aluminium flat stock cut, drilled and tapped to size did the trick.

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Starting the wiring was next and to start I decided to get rid of anything that I didn't need. All I really had to remove was the wire directly to the coil from the ignition switch, and the wire from the coil to the distributor. This turned out to be a more difficult job than I thought - largely because all of the wires were covered in 44 years of dirt and woo that made them all indistinguishable so a few hours was dedicated to sorting and cleaning all of the old stuff. I have found that the wiring diagrams in my Gregories manual for different variants of Clubmans are all similar, but none of them are exactly the same as the way my car is wired or the colour of the wires - there's not much evidence that my car wiring has been stuffed with in the past so I am at a loss to why some things are different. I still have one dark green wire that runs along the front side of the the engine bay that has two female spades on it about a meter apart that don't seem to go anywhere. It comes straight from the original fuse box. Spotlights maybe?

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It was only mildly daunting at this stage but things got a little more daunting once I added the wiring loom from the Haltech Elite 550 and fuse box into the engine bay.

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While it all looks like complete chaos, it is all relatively simple. once the wires were routed roughly where they needed to go, it was easy to see what I needed to wire up and what I didn't need in my application. All the wires hanging out of the drivers side of the car (with the exception of 3 or 4) won't be needed for me.

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The fuse box and ECU is mounted underneath the parcel shelf and is tucked away but still allows easy access to the USB connector for when tuning and access to the fuse/relay panel. Excuse the horribly ill fitting carpet!

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The ECU is quite small and fits there nicely. I am incredibly impressed with the quality of the Haltech stuff that I am using so far. the wiring harness is awesome and the fuse box and relay panel already comes ready to go with main and fuel pump relays. All I really have to do is terminate the wires I am using and reassign or remove the wires that I don't plan to use.

I will need to add an inlet air temp sensor but other than that, everything that is already installed on the mini engine should be enough to get the car running. Anything else (such as exhaust temp or really anything) is just an extra reference point for the ECU to either self tune or use as a reference for engine scheduling as the tuner sees fit.

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 1:26 pm 
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jpodge wrote:
I have found that the wiring diagrams in my Gregories manual for different variants of Clubmans are all similar, but none of them are exactly the same as the way my car is wired or the colour of the wires - there's not much evidence that my car wiring has been stuffed with in the past so I am at a loss to why some things are different.

Have you sorted the original harness sufficiently or would a wiring diagram help? I can supply you with the engineering drawing for the 1976 Leyland Mini (part AYA9235) if that helps. It is dated March 1976.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 10:36 am 
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winabbey wrote:
jpodge wrote:
I have found that the wiring diagrams in my Gregories manual for different variants of Clubmans are all similar, but none of them are exactly the same as the way my car is wired or the colour of the wires - there's not much evidence that my car wiring has been stuffed with in the past so I am at a loss to why some things are different.

Have you sorted the original harness sufficiently or would a wiring diagram help? I can supply you with the engineering drawing for the 1976 Leyland Mini (part AYA9235) if that helps. It is dated March 1976.


Thanks Winabbey - that has answered the illusive wiring questions :) (at least for the factory stuff anyway)

The TPS on the BMW k1200 is a strange piece of kit. Unlike most TPS's (and the way the Haltech wiring loom is set up), this throttle position sensor has 4 pins, vice the usual 3. These are power, ground, signal for the first ~20% of throttle opening and the last pin for the last ~80% of throttle opening.

Retrofitting another throttle position sensor to this throttle body setup would be relatively difficult as, with most German things, it's engineered very differently to something more normal so I will likely have to just make it work. My plan of attack on this one is to first check with a multimeter as best I can that the resistance of both singal pins is linear as throttle is opened. If that's the case then wiring both signal pins together should see a single common linear signal return which the ECU can recognize.

I think linearity once they are both wired together is the key here as the Haltech does a system test from 0% open throttle and 100% open throttle and interpolates the in-between to schedule fuel injection/ignition timing etc.

I'm far from having an electrical background as I'm sure is very apparent. I've attached my data source just below and the total resistance table that's at the bottom looks linear as throttle is opened so I think this supports my theory that wiring both signal pins into the one signal wire will do the trick.

Also, if someone has a better idea or just a different TPS to use (preferably 3 pin) than that would be awesome!


https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachments/k1200lt/96562d1452793900-low-idle-speed-bmw_k1200_throttle-position-sensor-tps-version-1-2-.pdf

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


Last edited by jpodge on Fri May 01, 2020 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 3:38 pm 
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jpodge wrote:
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A suggestion for that idler/tensioner...cut a shallow belt groove as a guide and a small bevel on the outside...

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Last edited by 9YaTaH on Fri May 01, 2020 2:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 8:22 pm 
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Great progress!

I’ve got nothing helpful to suggest for your technical issues :)

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 9:53 am 
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9YaTaH wrote:
A suggestion for that idler/tensioner...cut a shallow belt groove as a guide and a small bevel on the outside...

Thanks mate - I'll probably do without at the moment as it's all put together and normally an idler doesn't serv the purpose to keep belts in allignment (most that run on the outside of a belt are slick)

timmy201 wrote:
Great progress!

I’ve got nothing helpful to suggest for your technical issues :)

All good Timmy! I'm glad someone is watching with interest :)

I learnt something yesterday so I thought I'd share it with you in the hope of helping anybody out with similar issues or questions. If you're prone to nosebleeds, this is probably the point that you should find something else to read, or head to the shops to buy more toilet paper.

One of my Electrical engineer mates put me onto some electrical circuit simulation software and gave me a proof of concept based on the wiring diagram in the data sheet thing that I put a link to above. When you recreate the wiring diagram of the throttle position sensor in the software, you get this,

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The potentiometers are obviously changing value as the throttle is opened, and using the slider bars on the right hand side, you can change the resistance of each potentiometer and see the effect on the output voltage on each pin (pin 1 and 3 - the two signal pins) in their respective plots against time down the bottom as represented by the green line. In the top picture - they're just at a static state. The resistance of the potentiometers and resistors are set at arbitrary values, but what is important to note is that both potentiometers have the same range and from what I can gather in the data sheet, both potentiometers have a range of about 700-750 ohms. If they weren't the same then the mechanical movement rate of opening the throttle wouldn't be equivalent to the change in the voltage across the range of physical throttle movement and the ECU would have a hard time interpreting what is happening.

Now, as you increase throttle from 0 to 100%, each pin does it's own portion of making that happen, and they do that independently. So I slid the resistors bars from 0 - 100 on each and you can see the resultant change in output voltage on Pins 1 and 3 below that change independently from another. One goes to it's max value, and then the other.

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Cool, so obviously once one pin has reached it's maximum value it doesn't do anything until the throttle is returned to within the range for that pin - this is obviously not useful in the situation where you only have one signal wire that is expecting to read a range from 0-100% throttle movement and not 0-20% for instance. I'm sure everyone could appreciate that it just wouldn't work and would be impossible to tune to (or at least very, very difficult).

Stuff it - let's just splice the signal wire to read both pins at once. Add a wire between pins 1 and 3 in the software and see what happens

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Both pins now read the same voltage and changing the resistance of either potentiomenters changes the values across both pins - perfect. In the plots at the bottom you can see that both pins change voltage together at the same rate as the resistance of each potentiometer is changed. The little flat spot in the graph just represents me being slow in moving the mouse from one resistance slider bar to the other. Sweet! So the voltage ranges remain the same between 0 and 100 between the two scenarios but we can read the throttle position off a single wire now.

Yes I could've tested this with a multimeter but it's cold outside and my multimeter is a bit crap so I'm super thankful for Mark putting me onto this software and showing me how much smarter he is than me. Lol. not hard.

So I should probably buy a connector and get crimping and soldering.

If you're interested in having a play with the software - it's completely free and is a java based online thing. You can download it to work offline if you want
https://www.falstad.com/circuit/

The wiring is coming along (slowly) and I realised this morning that I never removed a tooth from the trigger wheel... sigh..... I should probably do that.

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 10:35 pm 
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The distance you spaced the MED pulley out will require you to space the fan pulley out the same distance to keep the belt straight. Also check that the centre of the crank sensor is over the teeth, it looks a bit far across.

I have just read the last post. Now if I am reading this right the BMW TPS, which has 4 pins, can be modified by joining 2 of the pins into 1 wire, which creates and single sweep action, 0-100%. If this is correct it's taken 8 years for me to find the solution :shock: I would love a pic of the wiring at the TPS.

Lastly on the injectors, stand bmw were way too small, 370cc were way to big. Without going back and having a look I think I finished up with 260cc or there abouts out of a v6 Commodore.

When you remove the tooth from the trigger wheel take note of what degrees (ie degrees from your crank sensor) the Haltech recommends

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