the way cams "Act" really depends a whole heap on how big the engine(bore) is
for example a wade/tighe 140 (35/75-ish) is almost smooth as silk, soft as a baby`s bottom
in my 1510cc, barely a lump to be had on idle & i can wide-open-throttle it at approx 1200rpms in top gear.
BUT!!!,,, shove that very same cam into a little 1293 & you basically have a bit of a pig to drive around town ,,, but pretty damn good little rally cam all the same. great mid-range with a fair bit up top,,, but still no full-race thing either.
now,,, lets stick that same cam into a little 850 & you have an absolute pig to drive around town, so0000 not street driver friendly at all,,, & lumpy as sh!t... & no-way could you "wide-open-throttle' that thing anywhere near 3000rpms-ish.
Bore size has quite a lot to do with cam selection
so does the use of the car
so does your "Want" for lumpyness & acceleration & revs etc.
Horses for courses
this goes with that at Susan
etc
if it`s for the street, i recommend a mild street cam (funny enough)
if it`s for track days & occassional street, then i recommend a "rally-ish" cam (lots to choose from)
if it`s all for the Race track only then grab a decent full race & run the high compression & use Av-gas & you`ll need a sc/cr gearbox , light flywheel , heavy clutch, big inlet, big head, big exhaust etc etc etc
again & simply--> "Horses for courses"
i do (however) like to slightly "under-cam" our engines just a tad,,, find a series or selection of cams around the driving you want to do & pick one slightly smaller that you "Think" you need...
but make sure you "spring" your valve springs to suit
under sprung & you`ll end upo with float & then bounce & possible "Bang" (or atleast hammered seats & valves & will need re-newing before it`s natural time
over springing & you`ll have a much slower engine, lots of wear & tear very early in the peace.
so much to think about hey?
i`m off to a funeral
cheers
Matt