Fitting a Pulsar dizzy is just as easy as into an A series. Refer to post in Mods forum- viewtopic.php?t=1498&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
Note:
The A+ drive dog goes on the same but the roll pin is smaller.
The Pulsar flange is cut off the same as on an A series.
File the 3 little casting fins off it just above the flange. The standard A+ dizzy clamp will then fit in there.
Note the dizzy driveshaft needs to be turned a bit to position the vacuum can.
Here's pics-

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi mate

Being a mechanical novice I was wondering what sort of advantage there is fitting a Nissan Dizzy to an A series? I have a 998cc in my 77 Cali, can I fit a Nissan dizzy to this and if I do will it give me better performance, economy etc.

regadrs

Devil Moker
Perth

Compared to any common Lucas dizzy (25D 45D 29D etc) with points, a Nissan Pulsar one will:
1. Give less (or no) spark scatter between cylinders hence more power & smoother running
2. Allow larger spark gaps (better economy)
3. Better cold starting
4. Won't cark it in wet weather
5. Have a better advance curve than your worn Lucas one now has.

For $40-$80 it's a bargain.

Sure you could fit a Pertronix ignitor to your Lucas, (I did this before) but hey it's still worn inside, so many problems remain.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc

Appreciate the feedback. Will start hunting for one now.

Devil Moker

Hey doc, what's your opinion on the A+ factory electrnic dizzy as found on the MG Metro? I have one and it works fine but could I be getting more from the Pulsar one? That is, will the curve be better for my worked motor and will it be better built with less "scatter"? I find that the car pings if I set the static advance to about 10 but is noticeably doughy if I set it at 5.

M

I have no knowledge of the A+ electronic dizzy, this one (out of `81 Moke) came with a Lucas 59D with sliding points.

I don't know what my static advance is on this one, but I've found it runs fine with full advance of 30*, set with vac line disconnected.
It works OK with 95 octane, no pinging. C/R is about 9.4:1, cam fitted is a Tighe 104 grind. Rockers are Toyota Corolla (modified) ratio 1.46:1.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Have purchased a D4R85 for my 81 Californian Moke.
Can you give me pointers on how to set the timing.

With vacuum advance hose plugged what setting should I use for stroboscopic
timing.
The pointer next to the crank has increment numbers next to the timing marks
ranging from 0,4,8,12,16
What should it be set to?
Regards
Andrea

A D4R85 has 12* centrifugal advance (at dizzy) = 24* at crank.
Most 1275s run well at around 30* total advance, so I would set it at 6-8* BTDC at a slow idle, with vac line off.

The most accurate way is to put a 30* BTDC mark on the crank pulley, rev it until advance stops, and line the marks up.
Do this though with the vac line disconnected.

Note- many of these s/h dizzys have a ruptured diaphragm in the vac can. Suck it and see. If you get an air stream, a new can is needed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Have found that my vac advance sucks air.
Must have a puncture in the diaphram.
What is the best way to rectify?
Do I need to track down another distributor for the part?, or can you buy new
replacement part?

Easiest to trawl the wreckers yard with a bit of hose until you find one that doesn't leak.
Or, take it back where you got it and complain.
Should also be available new as a spare part from Holden or Nissan. Probably for $BIG.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I just did a D4R85 dizzy for our 1293A+ motor to replace the D4R83.
No drilling required here, the `A+' roll pin is a just few thou smaller than the Nissan one, but it fits fine.
Just knock out the Pulsar drive pin, remove `dog' (spacer), put the A+ dog on, knock in A+ drive pin.
Including cutting off the mounting flange and filing the body fins so the A+ clamp fork fits, the whole job took 10 minutes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I found trying to use one of these with an A+ drive dog, made for a lot more end play than the dizzy originally had. Assuming you would have found the same, has it caused any problems and how did you overcome them?
Cheers
Scotty.

I used 2 thrust washers. The Mini one and the Pulsar one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Tried that & ended up with it being so tight I was worried it might sieze & the thrust washers are so hard you can't thin them a little by rubbing on a sheet of wet n dry. Any idea how much end float you ended up running?
Cheers, Scotty.

I like around .005" end float. If too tight oil won't get up there, it will seize.

Often when fitting a A series dog, it's too tight to fit any thrust washer. So I face a little off the top face of the dog to make room.
Handy having a metal lathe...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.