OK I'm about to convert my recently acquired 1275 auto block into a manual one. Done one before- so anybody in Sydney using one for a doorstop and wants it converted, drop me a line.

Mods involve making & fitting an alloy spacer for the oil pump, drilling 2 oilways, modifying the relief valve seat and drilling a dipstick hole.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i was thinking of converting my manual 1275 into an auto....

So, i'll need the bits you'll be drilling out to plug up my oilways and dipstick hole.....

Sorry, bad joke.... i need a coffee...

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

One day, just for fun, I'd like to build a 1425 auto with a hi-stall converter..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mate where can i get a 1275 auto from ?

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lookin for another clubby

I'd love to know where you can get a high stall converter for a 1275 Auto! I don't think such a part would exist. If it does, I want one for the Matic-Moke!

A 1425cc engine would probably kill an Auto. They are not renowned for their toughness.

I'm building an Auto Moke just decided I wanted to play with something different. In the lightweight Moke the stock 1275 A+ Auto should go okay.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Auto box is tougher than you think.
People have raced with them- but they do pull a few more HP out on the way thru to the wheels, according to Graham Russell.

I've had two 1275 autos in Morris 1100S's, couldn't kill 'em...
Just change the oil & filter regularly- like every 1500 miles... .

re the hi-stall converter- just about any torque converter rebuilder could mod a stock one. There's one in Seven Hills, right next door to where I'm working...

A bloke in UK modified one to a race box. I'll post the article up here tonite when I find it.

Here 'tis...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmm, very interesting!!! Never though of using a clutch instead of a torque converter.

In the Vic Mini Club a few of us are playing with Autos. One of my mates has been using his S-Matic in Motorkhanas for years, with sucess. Drivbing hs car planted my desire for an Auto Moke.

Another mate has built a "twini" dune buggy using Mini front subframes front and rear. At the moment it has my A+ Metro Auto in the front and a A Morris 1300 Auto in the rear! If running one engine only, we both agree my A+ is quicker. But running them both at once sure is fun!

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Hmmm... my roadster has an unleaded 1100 Auto - with an 1800rpm stall converter in it... i thought it seemed a little high, but who knows...

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Pretty sure all autos have the same converter. Bigger motors do make the stall speed higher, 1800 sounds about right for a 1275. I'd like it around 2600-2700, please... right where my cam hits paydirt!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Auto 1275 block will be modified to have manual plumbing this weekend. I'll post some pics next week showing what's involved doing it.

Seriously, this is not a dodgy mod. Once done (properly) the block is as reliable as a normal manual one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

To fit a 1275 auto block to a manual, apart from drilling the dipstick hole, there are a few mods needed to oil plumbing:
1. Auto block doesn't have the drilling all the way from the oil pump to the relief valve.
2. Auto block has 2 holes in the relief valve seat `cotton reel' to let oil get into the main gallery, because the normal filter flange is blocked off with a plate- the motor's lube oil comes UP the banjo pipe from the auto trans to the motor.
3. Auto block pump mounting recess is .250" deeper than in a normal 1275 block.

The cotton reel needs to be pulled out & the 2 holes brazed or welded, (or fit a manual one) then a 1/4" spacer plate made and bolted in, then the oil pump's 3/8" dia outlet hole drilled in the block 1/4" deep. Finally the relief valve's oil feed drilling can be extended to the pump outlet hole with a long series 8.5mm drill. Note this hole was offset in manufacture to miss the #4 cylinder bore- it can't be drilled properly with the cotton reel still in the block. The hole is already in there, but is about 20mm short....
Spacer must be bolted in there as the drilling will come thru the joint between spacer and block.

Here's a few pics:
Standard auto block's relief valve seat:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31275265@N05/9070535679/

Modified relief valve seat (the 2 holes brazed up) and new alloy spacer plate:


Drilling the pump outlet hole:


Block and spacer plate after drilling oil feed hole from relief valve-
Still needs a little cleaning up with the die grinder...


Finished spacer mounted (temporarily) in block-


Now that the 7/16" dipstick hole is drilled, the block can be bored and hot tanked. Gotta decide wot pistons now.... decisions, decisions! Maybe 1360 this time...

Note: the spacer is a real neat fit & will be sealed with a gasket and Permatex #3 aviation gasket cement. Once sealed it will stay in there.
If I ever want to remove it though, there's 2 tapped holes in it for jacking screws.
<edit> The alloy spacer won't be fitted until after block is bored and hot tanked.

<edit 2, 7/7/05 > originally I tried to seal between the pump spacer and block with Loctite 515 Master Gasket, and no gasket- but the pump sucked air. It's fine now with a gasket fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

1360cc Hypatec pistons (73.0mm) ordered. Good things come from Qld...

Now do I keep a stock 1100S crank or stroke this sucker, tooooo...

If I get crank stroked to 84.0mm, it'll be 1405cc..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Gee I wish you were making this engine for me

Abopt me Kev!

I wish i had the time to come around and see all this happenning

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

This 1300 auto block is in my car now, 1360cc, S crank and running hard.

Only thing I have now added to this story- don't try and get away without using a gasket behind the oil pump spacer plate. Pump will suck air & not prime without a good seal here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi all.
I'm putting together an auto 1275 for my wife, who can't drive a manual. Obviously I want to be able to keep her on the road for as long as possible. Anyone (in Adelaide especially) looking to offload any auto parts please get in touch.