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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:26 pm 
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Okay now for all those that have pondered the removal of the needle rollers from their swing arm well do i have a tool for you. :idea:
Rather than use BMC Service Tool BLAH BLAH BLAH, let me introduce the new Latin Tool - DYNAUS BOLTUS. :lol:
Yes that's right a 20mm to be exact.
I was faced with this challange the other day and this is what i came up with.
Hope you like it!!!! :)

Brian

Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:28 pm 
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Great idea Brian

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:46 pm 
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ha ha, nice...

Can you reuse the dynabolt for the other 3 bearings or does it deform too much?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:50 pm 
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Dynabolts cost peanuts, buy a handful.
I use a 10mm ones to get relief valves out if tight.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:55 pm 
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Very Nice Brain 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:56 pm 
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Thanks Scotta

Mick I did this on friday afternoon just before i leFt work.
Haven't pulled the others yet but it didn't deform too bad, looks worse in the image. Can't believe how easy it was. That was why i took the images.

Brian

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:06 pm 
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Better than a bur grinder and bashing a long rod...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:12 pm 
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Mick I was just reading your How To on this a few minutes ago. Very good.
Brian

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:16 pm 
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Aussie Brian wrote:
Mick I was just reading your How To on this a few minutes ago. Very good.
Brian


Might need an addendum...

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:41 am 
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Hey not a bad way to do it, but instead of putting a spanner on and bashing it with a hammer, why not put a rod through from the other side and bash that?

The correct tool is really quite cheap and you can use it to remove your idler gear bearings (especially in the flywheel housing) as well as the ones from the front suspension arms.


Last edited by GT mowog on Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:59 am 
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GT mowog wrote:
Hey not a bad way to do it, but instead of putting a spanner on and bashing it with a hammer, why not put a rod through from the other side and bash that?


This was one of those spur of the moment ideas so the hammer and shifter were it, although I didn't really like hitting my shifter like that.
A rod through would be better, that way a central blow will impart better force on the bearing. good thinking GT mowog
I love these think tanks!!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:18 am 
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Aussie Brian wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
Hey not a bad way to do it, but instead of putting a spanner on and bashing it with a hammer, why not put a rod through from the other side and bash that?


This was one of those spur of the moment ideas so the hammer and shifter were it, although I didn't really like hitting my shifter like that.
A rod through would be better, that way a central blow will impart better force on the bearing. good thinking GT mowog
I love these think tanks!!!!


Since you would be putting a complete kit in it, you would have your old trailing arm pin to use for a pass through rod that you could bash, maybe just run it over the grinder first to reduce it's diameter a little.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:36 pm 
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Could that technique be used to remove the brass bush on the other side as well, or can it be used for the needle bearing only?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:50 pm 
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Mearcat wrote:
Could that technique be used to remove the brass bush on the other side as well, or can it be used for the needle bearing only?


I guess you can only try it, but if it doesn't work, it is likely the bush will be damaged and a proper puller might no longer work. You'd then have to grind a slot in it (with say a dremal) to get it out.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:58 pm 
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See the other thread. I screw a 7/8BSW tap into the bush, and drift it out.
You are going to toss the bush anyway. :wink:

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