Many thanks to those who have offered assistance while I've worked my way through Project Maurice. I can happily say that he's now been issued with a RWC and will be on the road with new Club plates later this week.

Having achieved that milestone I now plan to drive him to Hay this year, consequently I'm addressing a couple of things that, while not being a RWC issue, I'd like to reassure myself on.

Main one is that there's a tiny bit of harshness around the front end. Not unsafe or bad by any means, but given that the car sat for upwards of 20 years or so, I feel I should investigate.

I suspect either wheel bearings or cv joints. Neither show any huge signs of movement, but since I happen to have set of both available I thought I'd put them in as insurance.

First question for the Gurus. Can I simply take off the hub and slide the inner spline out and remove the whole assembly? I've got a pair of hubs and driveshafts that are in good condition so I'd like to simply recondition these with new parts and swap them over. In my mind it seems too easy to be true, hence my inquiry.

Second, without delving deep into my spares, can someone confirm that the ball joints and shims are the same as Mini. I know the uprights differ, but the ones I have are off an ADO16 anyway.

Oh, and here's a piccy of him. The MG front panels will ultimately match the rest of the car, but only when I get around to it. IN the meantime they're rust-proofed and primed.

Cheers, Pottsy.

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Smile Up at The Trucks!

Well done to resurrect a less-popular model. When they were new the ride was incredible and set the standard for every other car.
Don't have any experience working on 1100s so don't want to misguide you but I think the hubs and drive shafts can be removed/replaced as a complete unit - same as minis.
But I DO suggest you loosen the CV nut while the weight of the car is still on the wheels. If the nut is tightened correctly, it can be a struggle even in a vice on the bench.

The 1100 hub only has Mini ball bearings . I would replace with Timken tapered rollers. As the CV is similar to Cooper S .

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks blokes.

Since my experience with Minis has never embraced rubber unis, I'm not certain of the procedure. Havig fitted new unis I'm reluctant to bit that particular bullet again at this stage. Not a fun job!. Given I plan to replace the sliding joint boots anyway, what I'm wondering is can I just slide the outer half of the drive shaft from the spline, along with the hub, so I can more easily replace the CV while the hub is off for the new bearings?

Doc, for the limited usage this car will get, I'm happy to run with the standard ball bearing units. Not planning on any motorsport in this one, that's what the Mini is for.

Another thing, I assume that the ball joints are different (longer pin? Different taper?) but haven't dug out a Mini one yet to compare. Not really an issue as the ones I've removed from my spare hubs are in excellent condition, but I like to know these things for the future.

Cheers, Pottsy.

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Smile Up at The Trucks!

Hello Pottsy, one ball joint is same as mini, one is larger. from memory shims are the same. Yes you can undo cv nut and slide hub assembly off, but its not unknown for a wheel bearing to be very tight or eaten into the cv. It may have tapered bearings already, and the centre spacer is much wider. You would need to carefully set up wheel bearings preload if you were changing to tapered. If the car is excessively high they also seem to feel strange in front end when driving. cheers "LINS"

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1967 EX works rally mini restoration virtually complete OBL45F
1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

Hi all. Car is now on the road on his brand new Club Plates.

I've got a spare set of front hubs in excellent condition so I thought I'd clean them up and fit them out with new bearings before contemplating swapping over.

The bearings that came out of these hubs were the "original" ones labelled 16LJT11/4. These appear to be the right ones from the parts book. There was a spacer in between as well, also as shown in the Book.

The replacements set I sourced is GHK1018. These are the right size and with an integrated spacer. I've used these before a long time ago on a drum brake Mini front end with no issues.

However, the spacers don't appear to be meeting in the middle of the hub, hence, when I test tighten up a CV and drive flange combination the rotation is really stiff and would, I suspect, result in rapid failure.

Any ideas Gurus?

Cheers, Pottsy

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Smile Up at The Trucks!

Turn up a spacer to suit. I do this when fitting noname tapered rollers to Minis when the supplied spacer is too short (often is).
Need to make it too thick, measure endfloat then machine it back to give approx 0.001" preload when assembled and torqued up.
I'm talking about bearings without integral spacers. Original design.

The original spacers for all Minis were not hardened.

Edit
If it's just a few thou gap in there with these new bearings try and find some 1-1/4" shims instead.

Otherwise I would fit tapered rollers as I said before. They don't have integral spacers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.