So I've started work on the car today and thought i'd try get the locks going.

Passenger side clicks shut and locks, but isn't openable from the outside (handle just moves up loosely).

Drivers side will not shut, and again the outside handle seems disconnected.

Grabbed the gregorys and began to dissasemble the lock mech, and i'm kind of stuck on removing the bellcrank rod and the locking link.

The belcrank rod is a bit of metal fit inside a hard plastic bellcrank wtf. Am i supposed to get pliers or something and yank it out?

And as far as I can see there doesn't seem to be any way to remove the locking link from either the door lock side or the lock cylinder side??

Any ideas on the outside handles? feels like something is missing. They both move freelybut the door lock end of the bellcrank rod seems to just move up and dwon the gap it has not 'engaging' anything to open the door.

all you need is skinny hands and the patience of a saint. fn terrible time
consuming job it is playing around with the door locks. I cant think of
any easy way to do it. just took me lots of time with pliers last time

this is a difficult topic to put into words....

The lock barrel has 2 'prongs' on it, that need to be compressed inward, to remove it from the door skin. Fingers will do it, if you can get in there. Long nose pliers might also help.

They are attached to the lock mechanism via a rod actuator. These clip off, by rotating the locking clip off the rod actuator.

The exterior door handle also has a rod actuator attached to it. Yours might have come away from the lock mechanism, or handle.

Either that or the handle has lost a pin that locates it to the handle body. If so, it will feel loose and floppy, and won't seem to do much when lifted.

Good luck!! Trial and error is far better than any book for this one!! IMHO.

Ah thx. Once i knew those little rotator things unlocked the yellow plastic bits I was right.

So i've got the lock out and it seems the thing that slides up and down connected to the outside handle is not engaging the little 'bump' bit that releases the door unless you push down on it really hard. The backing of the lock seems to be slightly upturned (but not bent) on the end the slidy bit is on.

Does this mean the lock itself is past it's used by or is there someway to make it always engage the lock when it slides up? The metal backing seems pretty solid so a plier bend so that it forces some pressure on the slider isn't going to cut it I think.

The actual unlock mechanism works though as when I put the lockend on the body by istelf, if I pressed hard enough on the slider so that it engaged I could unlock it from the outside handle mechanism.

Shard

ps. oh and the door will not close properly without the lock anyway! the front half closes ok, so does the top, but the bottom corner (closest to the driver seat) leaves a gap. I'm guessing this means dodgy shaped door (even though it looks perfectly straight??).

Just realised that might not make any sense... I can take a photo and post it if i'm not making sense.. lemme know .

Shard

The door closing bit might be because your door is not aligned correctly on the hinges or you might have door sag cause the bushes in the door hinges are worn out (if you grab the door and lift it up and there is some movement in the hinges then your hinges need reconditioning)

regarding the rest a picture would be good, I had problems with my clubman door lock mostly due to wear I was able to fix it but it only worked occasionally and was unreliable. If you can't get too far with it then I would get a working 2nd hand one as you can stuff around for hours with them and get no where.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Yeah i've got a bit of play when I lift the door up. Will invesitage the hinges after I've got this lock crap sorted out .

Back to the lock, the problem seems to be that when you lift the handle, it doesn't raise the bar enough to move the slidey thing. I've taken too pictures here, the first is with the outside handle down, and the second with it lifed completely up. You can see that the bar isn't being moved vertically enough to catch the top of the slidey thing and engage it to release the door lock.





How's this fixed? I've tried adjusting the two bracket on the backside of the outside handle by loosening the bolts, but no matter how I position it I can't seem to get enough clearance to lift the little bar high enough to engage.

Shard

i believe i have the exact same problem, though i haven't checked mine for a while. i just open it from the inside for now until i have sufficient time/patience to look at it again.

Only thing I can think of at the moment is to try to bend the wire bit so that it engages the sliding piece earlier Ideally I think it should be so that it is near or touching the top part of the slidey bit I guess

What is on the other side of the white plastic bit that actuates the wire piece maybe there is some adjustment possible there

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

I've got the same problem.. it's not too bad, just makes closing the doors a bit harder. I heard you can get them drilled and pinned? Anyone know if this is any good... where abouts can you get it done?

Fixed this problem early yesterday morning. Problem was both door handles were missing a second bolt/nut on the adjuster bracket that holds the outside handle on.

Temp fixed it by taking off the passenger nut and installing two on the driver side. By adjusting the plate so that the rod is positioned just at the top of the slidey bit before engaging the handle now works.

Have to go and get another two bolts/washers from Bunnings today for the other side.

As for the doors, problem with the drivers side is when you do 'slam' it shut, there's a pretty noticeable gap on the back of the door (end closest to rear). Passenger door 'rubs' shut, but at least when it's closed it looks closed.

Shard

you can buy new bushes and pins to recondition the hinges yourself, otherwise mini parts places sell reconditioned hinges on a (mostly) exchange basis but if I remember correctly they are expensive.



I would check the hinges are OK first and try to centre the gap around the door by adjusting the hinges. The latch part on the car itself is adjustable so once you get the door aligned right you can adjust it to where the door now sits

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Thx for the suggestion. How do you get to the hinges themselves. Had a brief look at them yesterday and seems to be just the one bolt on the door holding them in, couldn't see anything bodyside that was removable .

Shard

(apologies if this is a stupid question, mini doors are new to me. I'd also go outside and undo the bolts and see what happens, but it just started to rain )

you can get to them from inside the front guard or if you want the bolts in the door you can get to them from the inside of the door (don't drop the nuts they are not so easy to get back)

There are two nuts inside the door. two nuts (I think) inside the guards as well (I might be wrong there I can't remember) It is easiest to adjust using the door bolts I think but it is a two person job you will need someone to hold the door up for you while you tighten up the nuts, unless you can pack it up with something

Are your hinges OK? there is no movement in the hinge when you lift the door up

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss