Howdy!

Once I start paint stripping (combination of stripper/wire brush/wet&dry), I want to etch prime as I go, effectively prepping in chunks to ensure there's no rust build up. I have kind of figured out an approach, but still have some questions aswell - so any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I figure I'll do the following chunks, in this order : engine bay, boot, inside (maybe half at a time), roof, side 1, side 2, front, back, doors & misc. How does that sound? .

What's the best way of joining these "chunks" paint wise, to avoid overlap? ie. do I pick an unobvious line (seam maybe) and stop there? What about the join between roof and body, or side and back?

Cheers all,
Linden

linden after you "etch" prime the car you should use a high fill whick you rub back to hide the high and low spots
so it dont matter i have started and will go down one side round the back up the other side then the engine bay then the boot then the interior
makka

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hey,

i have been doing the same sort of thing.. I did the inside first.. had that all stripped and painted in a weekend..

then i did the roof. then left side, right side, back.. just do the pannels from seam to seam.. take the seam covers off......

i got to do the front next... after i work out if I am doing the flip front..

pics of mine are here..

http://www.users.tpg.com.au/codyabel/EVIL%20850/

no there not
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Cheers guys - it's reasurring to see I'm on the right track. But what about when you do the filler coats? Will you also allow for small overlap which you will sand out? And then what about top coats? same thing?

yes they are//

now they are ya turkey ....
sorry linden um
when you do the hifill and then top coats you should do it in a flowing fasion
so you dont do just one panel you do a bit .. um i'm confusing me i'll hush
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

The way I understand it, you don't want to leave it in acrylic primer too long either, especially if the weather is humid, as it will leach the moisture out of the air, causing the dreaded paint bubble over time.

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

Makka - are you attempting to refer to feathering? I've read a little about it and have thought that is what i may have to do, although it seems a bit daunting for a first timer.

Zizzle - how long is too long? It's far from humid here in Wodonga, but I would intend on putting the filler on within weeks.

Lindeng,
If you have to do it in stages I am assuming you are doing it in acrylic. Acrylic primer absorbs water rapidly regardless of whether it is humid.

Start with areas that can be painted to a sharp edge and finish them in colour ie inside boot, underneath, inside cabin, engine bay. Now this is finished you can move to the outside. Do the roof next as there is a sharp gutter seam. Makes sense too if the roof is a different colour.
Now for the exterior.
Etch primer is not necessary with the advances in paint technology. Go for a PPG primer filler one shot. It can be painted on heavily to allow for rub back to get out any ripples. It is not designed to get out dings so get your car as straight as possible first. If you plan on taking a while to get the job finished then do the car up to a body seam ie front guards and exterior of bonet. Primer then seal with 2 coats of colour, to stop water absorption. Then do one side from A pillar to C pillar including exterior surface of door and seal with 2 coats. Continue until whole exterior is in 2 coats of colour.

Final prep. rub back exterior with 600 and prep as per usual. Apply NO LESS THAN 6 coats of final colour to allow for rub back and do the whole exterior in one hit. Let sit for 2 weeks to sink (you will know what I mean) Cut with 2000 wet with car wash in the water as a lubricant to flatten the paint.

When you are at this stage PM me will guide you home.

I was taught to paint by a guy who does custom hot rods. I have had plenty of show winning and magazine cars and taken out best paint on many occasions so I guess I have a bit of cred when it comes to this stuff.
Hope this helps
G.

PS:
Feathering refers to doing an overlap on the top coat to blend into another panel so you dont have a visible seam. Generally only works well if you top coat it with clear and clear has its own problems with acrylic so I dont recommend it.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

what does a paint shop do then as far as letting it sit for two weeks does 2pac paint follow a similar method

low 'n' blown,

That's a great guide, and exactly what I was after. Thanks a heap. Yes, I'll be doing it in acrylic (using PPG paint). Just a few questions tho:

1. How many layers of Primer Filler should I use? Do I need to sand inbetween coats?
2. How long should I wait before putting the 2 layers of color coat on after the primer filler layers?
4.When rubbing back for final prep, do i rub all the way back to filler (ie. thru the 2 color coats), or just until nice and smooth?
5. You say do no less than 6 coats of color - do I do this in lots of 2 or 3 and sand back in between each lot?

Once again, thanks for your advice so far.

Cheers,
Linden

Ditto - fantastic advice. I have to do exactly that, and planned to paint in stages. The local bodyshop suppliers have good advice as well, but it's always good to back it up with completely unbiased advice.

For the primer filler I put on 2-3 reasonably heavy coats allowing about 5 min betweeen coats to tack off. If you have an area that you have put in filler then spot this first with an area of primer filler. Allow about an hour to dry then sand with 400 dry using a large block. Use a clean rag to buff it up a bit so you can get down at an angle and look for ripples. Keep sanding until the ripples are gone. If you rub through you will have to put on another couple of layers of primer. Repeat until it is dead flat.

The two colour coats are only there to stop absorption. Since they are flat when you come to apply the final coats you need to rub it back with 600 wet, but you dont have to rub it all off. Just make sure there are no shiny surfaces.

In between coats you DO NOT have to rub them back. The panels should be smooth and ripple free using the primer filler. That is its job. Just allow each coat to tack off say 5-10min between coats. I do 9 coats on my own cars as it gives the paint a thick luxurious look.

2 pak is different it is like an epoxy glue so you dont have to wait for it to sink. However it still does sink a little over a couple of weeks so any top quality show car will have the shop allow for this.

G.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car