Morning everyone,

I found some fine powdered rust in the su fuel bowls after all the fuel evaporated out. It came straight through the filters.

I pulled the tank out, pressure hosed all the sediment out (not much in there). Now I can see the inside of the tank, and on the bottom there is some surface rust. About4 or 5 square inches.

I want to know if there is a way to seal this or somehow prevent it from rusting further once it is back in and in regular use. Please Note that this 'rust' sediment wasn't present a couple of years ago, and it has had fuel in it constantly.

Any ideas??

Matt

I'm not sure what you can or can't do there, maybe a good soaking in diesel might be the
way to go, if you can't get any rust treatment in liquid form that can be easily put on the area. The other thing is you can only see some of the tank through the neck, so it's always possible there's more.
I'm positive there's rust in my tank (firefighters flooded it with soapy water),
so I'm going to go a new tank.

I would drain it, put some gravel in and rumble it about- tip out, rinse then slosh some phosphoric acid (rust converter) in there. Rinse again.
If you then want to preserve it, get a POR15 kit or a resin tank repair kit from a motorbike shop.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had the same problem with a motorbike tank from my Kawasaki GPX 600R.. All I did was as Doc suggested but instead of the gravel I used some some nuts and bolts.. Once all the major rust was out I just flushed it clean and used a motorbike repair tank kit and it worked a treat.. With the kit I brought it also came with some special cleaner to get rid of the rust... I think I paid about $25.00 for the kit from memory.. But never had a problem with rust clogging up the fuel filter anymore.

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Opinions expressed by me are of my opinion only and are copyrighted to Kinkabell Corporation? 2006.

Thanks Guys.

You can actually see 95% of the inside of the tank once it is out of the car, through the filler neck and the sender unit hole. Of course shoving part of a fluoro lead light in there (plastic body) helps too.

I have used some rust convertor on it, and Gravel too. It doesn't seem to be too bad now, I just wanted to be able to put it back in and not worry about it for the next 25 years.

Doc, What does this POR 15 stuff do? Will it bother the filter in the tank? Oh yeah, that was the other question, do these tanks have a metal 'pick up hose' and a plastic filter on them standard?

Cheers
matt

In regards to POR15 have a look at the web page about fuel tank repair.
Good stuff but not that cheap.
http://www.ppc.au.com/kits3.htm
Pete

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

You're right, it's not cheap. I could probably justify the cost if it were a 'genuine' cooper s right hand tank or something. (mine is rust free )
But for the little bit of surface rust I have (no holes, only in one spot around the blocked off drain hole) surely there is something cheaper out there?

Or is it a perfect case of "ya get wot ya pays for"??

Go to a bike shop, they have kits. Cheaper than POR15...
Barney's RH one got done last year by a radiator place in Castle Hill.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers,

I'll check it out tomorrow or Wednesday... if I ever get a lunch break!

Matt