Hey guys, i'm suspecting my clutch may be dying and i'm just wondering how much it would cost me if it ended up that it needed replacing?

I'm pretty sure that the master cylinder is worn out too and letting air into the system. I got the air bled out a few weeks ago but the clutch is starting to show signs of not fully disengaging again indicating that there's possibly air in the line again.

At the moment the clutch grabs fine unless i try to launch the mini hard off the line then it will slip a little... before i got the air bled from the system it was getting increasingly difficult to engage reverse.


So, how much in parts and labour is a clutch for a 1967 mini with a 1275A+ MG Metro engine? How much in parts and labour is a clutch master cylinder fitted?

Thanks, Simon.

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- Simon -

Well, if it's a normal Mini clutch setup a Cooper S clutch kit (diaphragm, clutch plate, release bearing) is about $108 for a Borg & Beck one. There are cheaper brands, but you get what you pay for...

Labour should only be a couple of hours- it can be done in the car.

If it's a later Verto clutch though, I have no idea......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah my clutch cost $143 for the kit (borg and deck, gees Kev how did you get it so cheap ), and machining the flywheel & back plate cost $90. You may have to add an extra $50 to buy a proper release bearing as you never know how long the one in the kit will last.... maybe forever, maybe not.

You may need to replace the clutch arm and/or the shuttle if they are worn. About $70 odd dollars for both I think??? The shuttle will either be rock hard as new or completely worn out, seems to vary quite a bit, build quality methinks.

No idea about the hydraulic side of things, somewhere around $20-$30 for the hose I suspect, new slave cylinder about $35 but I don't know how much for a master cylinder.

If it is a verto clutch, my suggestion would be to convert it to pre-verto ('normal') whilst you're at it, they are better
Cheers,
Anto.

IF you buy the Borg & beck one, it comes with a good RHP (UK Made) bearing. The others may not.... and the Jap made release bearings are crap.
Anto, I got my clutch kit from Karcraft 6 months ago.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So the British actually got something right?

Yep. If this bearing doesn't say Made in UK or at least Made in EC, I won't buy it. I got 3 days out of a Jap aftermarket one.... crap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Easy now Harley tiger - my dad worked at RHP for 15 odd years! Didn't the English get `The Ashes' right
Here we go - I am gonna get it now

I believe as well as the normal bearings there is another sort (earlier??) that looks very different but is meant to be a lot stronger. Bit more pricey too mind you!

I've had to do the bearing a few times, got a few duds that only lasted a few months (not the Jap ones though), but that could have had something to do with constantly having the clutch go out of adjustment (damn adjustable arm always winds itself back in!). Finally I got a good one. Then what, the engine blows up

Yes there is an earlier one that was used with the coil spring clutches up to `64?
The later one superseded it? I've not seen one lately.

Bob is using an Austin Kimberley one I think.

The load on it depends how the clutch is set up. If it feels friggin' HEAVY, the backplate probably needs the lugs machining to restore original clutch assembly depth. Mine needed 1mm taken off. Diaphragm should be flat when assembled.
See here-
http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/ ... ticleV.cfm

Mine is quite light now, and I'm running an orange rally diaphragm.
And yes, it grips like a bastard....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You mean besides sending all the criminals to Sydney & Tasmania?


by the way, I must ask

why does drmini in aust have "religious status?
is it because he only works for one hour a week on a Sunday?

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Mitsubishi Magna - the greatest car ever to be sold in Oz

yeh theB&B kits are good, got one put in with my reco. $130 at Link, and their labour charge is 62/hr or something.

Good stuff tho, i really like it.

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When I'm at work next I'll have to have a look at what the bearings are, all I know is they are supposed to fit and be better! Haven't tried one myself yet.

Hmm that article makes sense. My clutch felt 'about right' to me, but I like to have a hard clutch, that way when it begins to feel soft you know something is wrong! Clutch in my current dodgy 'Wild Duck' 1098 motor is too light for me, it always feels like its gonna break!

Notably I have had no clutch bearing problems since I adjusted my driving style to include putting it in neutral at the traffic lights instead of holding the clutch in. Never realised it was bad!