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 Post subject: No charge
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:26 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: queensland
Guys anyone know how the charging system on an alternator fitted mini works. Had to build a loom out of about 4 others. The alternator is reco, and a new original regulator fitted, but charge light not going off. Everything else works fine, just not this. Any ideas? (and no removing the bulb is not an option....lol)

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


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 Post subject: Re: No charge
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:35 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
low'n blown wrote:
Guys anyone know how the charging system on an alternator fitted mini works. Had to build a loom out of about 4 others. The alternator is reco, and a new original regulator fitted, but charge light not going off. Everything else works fine, just not this. Any ideas? (and no removing the bulb is not an option....lol)


That regulator there on the inner wing- be careful buying them- Jags etc have one that looks identical, but pinout on the connector is different.
And, if you plug one into a Mini it stuffs it up.. :oops:

If you have to, take the alt AND the reg to an autoleccy and get both tested together.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:49 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
check you've got the field wire plugged in - I had that when going from an alt with an internal regulator to external

grab a wiring diagram that suits the loom that the alternator & reg came off and trace everything


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:54 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
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Location: queensland
Cheers guys, I followed the manual when building the loom, and remember I had exactly the same problem when I built another loom for the group C car. Someone pointed out it was a mistake in the way I had wired the circuit and the w'shop manual was confusing here. Problem is this was 4 years ago and age is catching up with my memory. Does anyone know how the charge pattern works, perhaps I can figure it out??

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 10:34 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 9:12 pm
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Location: cabramatta sydney
sorry greg i dont think this will help you
but when i got my alternator and put my generator in the cupboard
my light doesnt turn off even after removing key
means my batt is still connected and will drain. ive got to disconnect the batt everytime i leave the car

ive been told when you switch over to an alt you can scrap the regulator (black box on driver wheel arch wall) coz there should already be one in the alt...... clarifaction anyone?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:08 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Duc,
The roundnose Minis with 15AC alternators had a 4TR or 8TR regulator on the RH inner guard. This is not the same thing as the generator one.

Later cars in the Clubbie era got Lucas alternators with the built in regulator. But these are not original for the `69-71 cars.
I use one in my `70 car because they are more reliable- and I don't care for originality in my `bitsa'. :wink:
They are also far easier to hook up and get working than the earlier 15AC type.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 2:24 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:39 pm
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Location: Sydney, E. Burbs
Well depending on whether its an internal or external regulator module and what module you've got fitted.

In any case 3 wires will be going to the alternator 1 to the starter solenoid, 1 to the light and one that feeds +12 from the "on upon ignition" fuse box terminal (you can also take it from an unfused terminal or the solenoid itself and fuse it inline). You will probably damage the regulator if you mix up the last two wires (in which case the light will stay on).

Assuming an external regulator both the power and the alt. light feeds pass through the regulator which also receives a permanent earth connection. The wiring diagrams in the manual cater for several different alt and regulator models so have a look at all of them and find the one closest to your setup.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 3:53 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: cabramatta sydney
thanks doc
yeh, my parents changed over all the electrics to make the car more reliable
the generators still in the cupboard and that will come out when the matic has plans to go back in time
thanks for the tips, ive had people tell me things quite vaguely i guess they werent sure as well
i think the alternator was from the mini-suzi parts in seven hills

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:55 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
Posts: 1478
Location: queensland
Thanks for your help guys but after pulling my hair out found it was just a bum connection. All is now good with the old girl. Expect steve to post some pics of the car as I sent them to him tonight. Cheers G.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


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