I had my steering rack replaced a month ago, had an alignment done and had my passenger side suspension looked at (the cone was worn off by about an inch causing the car to pull right).

Now I'm putting this down to dodgy repairs done in the past after an accident. What's bugging me now though is my cars just started to make a rubbery squelch noise when I turn it left (passenger side), that and the car still pulls to the right albeit it a hell of a lot less then when the suspension was down an inch on the driver side but still very noticeable.

I've gotta drive with one hand on the gearstick (worn 4th synchro) so it kind of hurts my arm 'fighting' the steering on ~30+ min trips. Any ideas? cv joints, drive shaft etc etc. I've had it repaired at the local garage after someone ran a red light and hit my passenger side as I was turning and it wouldn't suprise me if they quick fix and bodged up the passenger side drive shaft components. Would this cause the squelch (only started after passenger side was fixed) and continuing problem of pulling left?

Other quick question is I got the karcraft catalogue in the mail the other day and want to order a brake master cylinder kit, which cylinder do I have. I know it's not a tin type so that leaves .700" or the .750" plastic tank type. How do I know? It's a 78 moke with a dual circuit cylinder.

Repco had one standard kit for $30 a few weeks ago when I checked but were vague as to what type it was for. The catalogue description was 78 onwards mini brake master cylinder kit, is it worth getting that as my cars stock 78 (as opposed to karcrafts $38/$44). I've bought a clutch master cylinder kit before and havent had any problems with it since (4 years) so I'm just looking to save myself time and money (i'm based in melb). Already tried Northern mini parts and they wont sell me a kit, they want me to buy a new cylinder.

Thanks, for some reason every time i ask a car question i end up writing a short story... one of these days i'll learn how to condense condense condense!

Shard

I reckon you've gotta get that subframe out - pulling to the left like that after an accident is likely to be different castor angles - castor is the amount the hub leans forward or back. Basically you're going to have one wheel sitting further back than the other. The wheel alignment mob should have checked that and told you about it. I always ask for the printout of all the angles so I can see what is what.

You might find it can be fixed on the car using adjustable tie bars...

as for the master cyinder kit - the single circuit and the dual circuit are very different animals - I've got my workshop manual sitting in front of me with exploded views of each one, and the dual has about 20 cups and washers against the single having only 2. Maybe I'm exaggerating, but the difference is marked. If you want, I can scan the pages and email them, then you go inspect the kits at repco or wherever and see if you can pick the difference. What a lot of people tend to do is chuck the dual circuit MC away and fit a single - it's supposed to be a simple job and makes maintenance much easier - though can I have the dual circuit one if you do that?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

cheers for the reply.

The subframe hmm. That's going to be pretty expensive labour wise. Wouldn't mind having a crack at it myself (subframes are $160 from memory) now that uni's almost over but I don't have or have access to the equipment (crane).

I know i've got a dual circuit, and I know I have a plastic tank just don't know if it's a .700" or a .750". I'm thinking I might take a photo on the digicam tommorow morning and email it off to them so I don't buy the wrong kit.

Repco just have the one ki listed for a mini m/cylinder, so I'd be taking a chance buying it and seeing if it was the right one.

Shard

you drop the subframe out from underneath and hoist the body off it - as long as you've got some ropes, some friends and a rafter you can get the body off easily - mokes are very light so you won't have trouble.

are you sure you've checked all the simple stuff, you haven't got a brake dragging, low pressure in one tyre etc. etc. - there are many many factors that contribute to pulling to one side

But save yourself some effort and get the castor checked - if it's OK then you've got some other problem

if repco only have one kit, I'd say it's not the one for the dual circuit - 18 years worth of mini production made a heap more single circuits than the last 2 years of duals, and repco only carry the common stuff - think about converting - what's the problem you're trying to solve with the kit anyway?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Ah I wasn't aware you could do it from underneath engine intact, got told engine had to come out.

Trying to fix pedal losing pressure. I've had all four brakes checked and serviced about a month ago (same time as new steering rack put in) and it's slowly but surely going back to how it was; lower and lower pressure engage point in the pedal. Also noticed a while ago that at lights the pedal will slowly sink to the floor with my foot on it. Kind of makes stopping on a hill interesting. If i'm not paying attention and just 'rest' my foot the brake will release as the pedal slips under my foot weight.

Shard

*grumble grumble* karcraft say nobody makes repair kits for my dual cylinder anymore. I can fit the GMC171 but I need to modify my brake lines.

*cries*

Shard

Takes two reasonable size people to lift the body off the subframe. One really huge bastard could do it by yourself. You say you are are uni, well surely your mates will help. 3 mates + 1 slab = moke off subframe + 6 beers each.

is the "squelching" happening when you hit a bump? my left side upper suspension arm nylon cup had worn right through, and the knuckle was grinding away at the upper arm. made a horrible sound not unlike you describe. But it would happen more when the left side was loaded up i.e. turning right. Maybe the dodgy repair of the cone did not involve replacing the nylon cup?

There is a guy up in QLD who will sell you a late model UK twin circuit cylinder, and he also sells the repair kis so you won't be left in the same position in 5 years time...."Terry & Cindy @ ESP <[email protected]> wrote:

We have a tandem cyl in stock that will suit. Brand new $260. This
is an English market cyl for non boosted disc brakes. We carry kits
for these as well.
Regards,
Cindy
ESP"

Might be worth a try - i never bought one because i did not really need it

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