Was reattaching the water pump this morning and this happened



There was a whole bunch of rubberised gaskety sealant stuff at the end of the bolt shaft and the combined pressure of the gasket and the rubber being compressed popped off the missing piece.

Any ideas what to do to fix that one?

that looks like a job for the profesionals (not CI5)

I think We have both learnt A leason this week we also thing it may have been Oil in the stud hole also...No idea how to fit that one

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I'd say there was already a stress fracture there, definately not a home fix job

You're right, CI5 wouldn't know what to do.

Get the "A Team" onto it.

(A team, A series, get it? No? Another benefit of foxtel, shows nobody has seen for ten years, or know nothing about)


As for fixing, you could get another block, try welding the part back on (though it probably won't work on the cast iron), or maybe see if you can move the support hole further down.
If that doesn't work, you cold possibly fit the broken part back ontop, and drill n tap into the front side and fix a brace plate in there, and over the top.

If all else fails, gaffa tape and cable ties...

thats definitely not pretty
from my engineering inexperience,
i say you could slowly, layer by layer weld a good chunk on top.
for cast iron i do not know/think you can get such a weld for
are there any good super heat resistant superglues, eg aviation glue?

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

That is not really a structural part of the block- this bolt just holds the water pump on (with 3 others to help).

No big deal to fix really.

Forget welding `the broken bit' back in. You will just make a mess.
Instead, as a welder, I would:
1. Clean all the threads right out, and dress the broken faces a bit, with a die grinder.
2. Arc weld it in short runs (1st bead across the bottom) a layer at a time with Cigweld `Castcraft 100' or equivalent stick electrode. These are 100% nickel rods designed to give a soft machinable deposit on cast iron.
3. After it's cooled off, clean it up with an angle grinder & file, then drill and tap the hole again- 5/16" UNF.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev, I'd use NiFe Rods Meself....
Seems to be a better "running" rod and definitley machines nice...
(that is unless they are the same rods..... )

I've had no hassles welding Cast Iron since getting some of these old "black beauties"
(About 30 years old!!)

Cheers
J

_________________

You can use either Ni or NiFe, Ni is softer- but don't use steel rods or MIG on it.

<edit> ordinary Cigweld `Castcraft' rods are OK too- they are Monel..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Excellent advice and asistance as usual Kev. That looked like a unrepairable job! Steve

Cause of this was probably `silastic' in the thread. This puts terrific hydraulic pressure on the hole as you screw the bolt in. I've seen bits of cylinder wall flick off #1 cylinder because one of the other water pump holes had it in.
Be careful with that stuff, if you must use it just use a thin smear, and don't get it in the holes. Safer to use good old fashioned Permatex #3 aviation gasket cement.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So what's the best way of getting the silastic out of the holes?

Run a tap through first, then blow it out probably.

Devcon?

File to shape, then drill and tap.

Not cheap though!

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Hmmm, would another way be to relieve the broken thread housing up to the web on the block, then notch the block a tad so that a bolt, NUT and washer could be used?? I'm not saying relieve enough to get a ring spanner on the nut - just one flat uop against the block so it was reluctant to turn....signed...wondering (this assumes there is enough meat around this area - apologies - too tired to go and look)

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"