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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:21 pm 
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teh admin God
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Location: Smitho, Tassie
Okkher
So im not in the mood to go searching through pages of stuff, to find answers to my questions that would have been asked many times, due to extra slow internet, So ill start a new topic. Good.

And peoples will probably say take it to a professional, but it isnt going to happen. The mini hardly ever gets driven, so i think its time for me to fiddle with it, and get things right, cause if i break something, then it isnt that urget to get back on the road.
And it isnt worth paying someone when i can probably eventually get it as good as anyone ( with your persons help?), And as there are no 'specialist' mini mechanics for ages away

Way back in June/July?? Last year i went to an old bloke semi-retired mechanic guy, (who works for a bloke we know, so we had a few friendly words to get him to assist) and the old guy taught me a few things, including how to 'do' the brakes, which i have decided need doing now.
I just watched him do them, then he said ok you do it, And i did.
But back then i didnt know anything, and now i know a small bit more.
And looking at a few mini manuals, they are no help.

With the adjusting nut?
How far should it be wound in, to then set the brakes? ( I havent got to the front yet ! Just on back ones., I still havent thought how im going to get the front of the car safely up, so i'll get to that when i do.). I find that only when it is all the way in and then i wind it a small bit out, there is any resistance at all.
So maybe thats normal.

And when the brakes are locked, and then back off a small bit to get it moving 'freely'. How freely is free enough?
Mini manuals say move freely? Is that free enough so that you can spin it with hand and then step away and watch it spin?
When the old bloke did it, He had it real tight, so that i couldn't move it with one hand. He said, go with 2 hands, and it was still quite tuff to move?
So what is right?

And how many tuff spots is acceptable in teh rotating? If i get it to a stage, one section will turn smoothly, and then it will hit a rough spot, and i cant budge it?
So these are all in regard to the rear brakes, but the front will be getting the same questions from me too, I assume.

I took it for a test drive with a few different combos of things, Just the rears done no front? And the rear locks up? Is this just cause i havent touched the front brakes, and the backs are more responsive than the front ones? And when i get to the front brakes, it will even back out again.

Okkher so I dont care how simple the questions (if you can find some in there?) sound. But they matter to me, so good.


Also found this on the left rear shoes. At the top. Its quite hacked/worn ><?? Or at least not smooth as the other parts are? Could this be causeing a few problems??

AND NO
you dont get away without pictures hahaha
Here we go
Image

once again
Image

how about another look??
Image

Goodbye :wink:

:arrow:

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Vrilen Snyson Racing: Finding us all a Vrilen
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:15 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: sunbury victoria
camel u should adjust the brakes right up tight and then loosen them only so u can turn them with some force, if u leave them to free spin ur leaveing the cylinder to far to move to get contact thus creating a hole for air to get in which stuffs up ur brakes to the extent that u aint gunna stop, wen properly adjusted and bled u should not have much travel in the pedal, only an inch or 2, before the pedal gets hard, u shouldnt have to pump them, and u certainly shouldnt be able to push the pedal to the floor as this will also allow air in, dont ask y it just does, but yer, adjust to the max then loosen till u can just turn the wheel because u will find after 100 k's or so u will need to adjust them again as the pad will wear and things will take time to settle, :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:28 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Dubbo, NSW
Looks to me like new shoes that haven't bedded in yet. Keep driving and adjusting nambibian - fronts are the same as the rears - only two adjusters per side!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:11 pm 
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1360cc
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geeez Camel...you sure know how to ask a question! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:18 pm 
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1275cc
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true aye....i used to do it so you could spin them but now i do it so if you turn them as soon as you stop pushing the wheel it stops turning..and hey, since then i only need to pump the pedal...well i dont need to anymore!!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:30 pm 
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teh admin God
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Yeah i know what to do.

Its just annoying little stupid things that i was unsure and i think i might have mentioned them, But i couldnt be sure :wink: :lol:

Dunno
wait till the weekend i reckon

OR

Just drive as i have for the last 6 months.

But then i cant go in the car club events :evil: The specifically said, If touch floor no good.
So something has to happen :wink:

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Sir Namibian CAMEL of MONGOLIA !!!
Vrilen Snyson Racing: Finding us all a Vrilen
Asparagus: Experience the versatility


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 11:53 am 
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teh admin God
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Well

so some may have read that i missed my driveway last night cause i couldnt stop, this was after owning 2 Targa stages 8) gee im tuff 8) :P the brakes were just working then, and then in town afterwards, but not here.

and i was going to go and fix them today, cause theres a club supersprint in about 2 weeks and i want to go, and race :P :roll:

BUT no crap its about 2 and a third degrees outside :?:
it is shockingly cold.
not much better inside really. :!:

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Sir Namibian CAMEL of MONGOLIA !!!
Vrilen Snyson Racing: Finding us all a Vrilen
Asparagus: Experience the versatility


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 12:12 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 10:19 pm
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Location: Helensburgh NSW
If you want good brakes there are no short cuts and do it in this order. If a customer walked in to a shop this is what he would get.

measure and machine drums
Radius grind shoes to suit the drums
New cylinders

The reason for new cylinders is the when the cylinders pistons in the cylinders operate in only a part of the cylinder the unused parts develop corrosion and when you put new shoes on it moves the piston back into that area and they begin to leak. Anyway to continue on, refit all the above, after adjusting the brakes which now should have no tight/loose spots bleed the system. You will now have very little pedal travel and because the drums and shoes have been machined it will stop an a zach. (5 cents to the decimal kids).

PS while it is all apart service the adjusters so they are nice and free.

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