Hmmmm........a problem has struck.........start her up and it runs pretty rough for 20 or 30 seconds then is fine. What has gone wrong or should I start replacing the plugs points leads and dizzy cap????? Help please Doc.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Retighten the head, then check the valve clearances. If that doesn't help I'd look at the plugs first, then the leads & cap. Check the rotor too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Doc - I actually retightened the head and did the tappets a week after doing the job - maybe I've stuffed up with the clearances there - I'll check there first.

My plugs are about 10,000 km old so I'll get new ones.

Leads are pretty old. get new ones.

The dizzy cap is only 12 months or so old. The rotor button is ???? old so a new one there wouldn't be a mistake.

Last weekend I played around with the carby thinking the problem might be petrol starvation so I've probably stuffed that up now.

Oh well, the old process of elimination and I'll get to it sooner or later. Stay tuned heh.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

New plugs and leads done.........no better, so tomorrow I'll re-check the tappet clearances, try a different rotor button then start on the carby if things are still no good.

just somewhat confused at what the problem is??????

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

What a bugger !!!!!!! Still not much better and a mechanic took a two minute look for me and said that the piston rings have "crumbled" - never heard of that happening ever before. Oh well, pull out the engine and see what the hell is going on.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Have you done a compression check at least?

Might be worth doing that before following the Mechanic's two minute wisdom.

Crumbling rings?? In two minutes?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Popping a Cam Following this happened to me this weekend when I was putting the head back on Morris after the head gasket went...the rod just would not goin a good light showed something just not right.
Took the cover plat off and reliased when I pulled the rods out one had just came out with it...Trick...give them a twirl at the same sime
Anyway it was just simple enought to pop it back in and put the plate back on

Still running Ruff...I would say it the Tappet clearance or one or two are done correctly...What gap did you set them to
and what cam are you useing

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I have the reverse problem re-did valves and one rod seems to have gone down too far its about 20 mm lower than others, I would think that they should all have close clearances from when they were removed, any ideas?

cheers

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If it squeaks and leaks, then its sure to be a mini

Building a dream one nap at a time....

http://spaces.msn.com/members/derbydog/

It's the same problem, a lifter has pulled out and the pushrod is now touching the cam..
You need to take the cover off and bung the lifter back in..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

cheers

was hoping it wouldnt of been terminal

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If it squeaks and leaks, then its sure to be a mini

Building a dream one nap at a time....

http://spaces.msn.com/members/derbydog/

I see doc answering this question a few times lately. It is prevented by lifting the pushrod a small amount to get clearance between the follower and cam lobe and jiggling the pushrod from side to side until the follower drops off it and back to the cam lobe. The oil makes it stick to the pushrod and it needs a bit of encouragement to make it release.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.