Hi,

My front drivers side wheel bearing is rooted. The other side seems fine but I've already ordered a pair of bearing kits so I'll put them both on and see if the good side is worth keeping as a spare.

My mechanic said to put new drive flanges on as well so I intended to do that but he called and said he can't get hold of any. I will try kar craft tomorrow to see if they can get me some.

Anyway cause I work an hour away I'm sending my old man down to the shop to pick up the parts. I intended to get started by removing the dodgy wheel bearings and drive flange tonight but wouldn't have a clue what I need to do. Can anybody offer any pointers or tell me what section it would be in the BMC manual (I can't find it anywhere!).

Thanks,

Dwight.

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dwightgunning.com

Section K (front suspension) in the `BMC' Manual. Mine's the good old red one..

<edit> go to the wreckers- all drum drive flanges are the same. Get ones that aren't worn where the bearings sit.
Note- this usually only happens if the driveshaft nut has got loose. Otherwise it's all clamped up and can't slip...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Worst case, if you cant get any locally, drop me an email and I'll set you up for just over the postage cost... cool ?
[email protected]

J

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The Drive shaft nut is as tight as a nun's nasty. So I'm thinking it will probably be ok.

Unless of course using a worn drive flange with new wheel bearings will cause the wheel bearings to wear out quicker then I wouldn't risk it.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

You won't really know until you pull the drive flanges out. About half what I've seen have grooves worn in them. Nut might be tight now, but might not always have been.
If no grooves, use them, no problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi.... ressurecting a month old thread again cause I still haven't finished the job.... BLARG


Anywho, I'm all set to go now. I have all my parts. Before I put things back together again I just want to ask a few questions.


1. Is the seperator ring that goes inbetween the 2 sets of wheel bearings inside the hub meant to be tight? Mine have a little bit of movement on the flange... the wheel bearings go onto the flange fairly tight.

2. The guy I got the 2nd hand flanges off suggested that some locktight might be a good idea on the wheel bearing -- flange interface. I'm probably going to do the honda disc thing in a month or 2 (in reality probably 4 or 5 but u know what I mean) so will the locktight make it impossible to get the bearings off again? If its a good idea, will I need high temp. gear or just some medium or high strength adhesive.

3. The new wheel bearings are slightly different to the old ones. Looking at the bearing from side on(so you can't see through the middle of the bearing -- I'd call that front on) , the old bearings were the same thickness. Looking at the new ones side on, the inner ring is probably 10mm thicker across. This means that there is more wheel bearing contacting the drive flange which is probably a good thing but I dunno how it will work when I go to put things together.

4. I took the drive shafts out because I was getting ahead of myself. I'm a bit sketchy on the setup in there so I wanna check I've got it all right. On the end of my drive shaft, where it goes into the transmission housing behind the gearbox, there is is basically a cage bit that goes around the drive shaft inside the boot and it has 6 balls that sit in these grooves. When I took one drive shaft out, a few of the balls fell on the floor. Is this what you guys refer to as the pot joint? Am I cool to just put the balls back in their grooves and pack it up with a bit more molybendium greese and slide her back into the transmission?

Sorry for the long winded post...

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

1. The spacer ring is a loose fit on the drive flange- it's just a spacer.

2. Don't use Loctite- they are hard enough to get the outer bearing off without it. Just grease it all..

3. Use one of the old bearing outer rings back to front as a spacer/drift, to drive the new ones in. Watch you don't jam it in there though..

4. Yeah that's the pot joint. Check the boots for rips, replace if any cracks etc. Bit of molygrease is fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Bah! I always manage to screw something up. I've stuffed the thread on my top ball joints by belting them with a BFH. Then in order to avoid this when I was removing my wheel studs from my old flanges, I put a wheel nut on the end.... belting it with a BFH has stuffed it too.

Now I don't have a 1-1/2 spanner to remove the ball joints so thats going to hold up the process *another* week.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

If you don't have a ball joint puller, use the BFH (or 2 together) to strike the side(s) of the top or bottom arm, never belt the end of the threads...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Indeed.

I wish i'd had a bit more of a think about it. Although at the time I'd spent an hour on it with a splitter so I was exploring all avenues. I'll know for next time.

The only way you figure these things out is by actually doing it for yourself. I read the manuals and get good advice from the forum and I still manage to overlook the little details...

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Ok so I need to go backwards for a minute here because after I put the swivel hubs back on and attached the tie rod and steering arm I went to put the flange in. After about 5 minutes I realised that I really should have put the flanges through the hub first because the splined drive of the drive shaft slides nicely on the flange but the outter circumfrence of the flange is where all the tightness is. Dumbass!

Anyway I've hit a snag cause I can't seem to get the drive flange to slide all the way through the wheel bearings. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the new wheel bearings I have which are different to the old ones.... the ring that contacts the flange is wider than the outter bit. Basically its flush with the out ring on one side, and sticks out a bit on the other side. At the moment I have the extra lip facing outwards and the 'collar' part in between the two bearings. I'm starting to think I shoulda not used the collar and had the lips facing inwards towards each other.

Has anybody used this type of wheel bearing? I was gonna just take the flanges out and have a closer look but they're in there pretty tight (not like when I took the old ones off), whats the easiest way to get the flanges to come out?

thanks,

dewey

P.S: Here's a little diagram to try to explain what I think is going on....
black: flange & swivel hub
red: tappered washer thingo
pink: Grease seals
blue: Wheel bearings
orange: bearings themselves
green: the spacer collar thingo

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dwightgunning.com

Well I worked out a way to get the flanges out... I put the hub in the vice with the jaws a fair way apart so that the brake shoes were making contact and there was clearance for the flange to move downward. Then I found that a 1/4 - 1/2 socket adapter is a decent fit and makes fair contact with the flange from the inside of the hub. I didn't really wanna belt the hell out of it because the brake shoes were taking the force and I didn't wanna bust up the socket adapter. A few medium strength wacks with the BFH and the flanges fell right out.

Then I took the wheel bearings out and measured them up and found that the excess width of both bearings combined to the width of the collar.... 10mm. So I put it all back together without the collar and the bearings facing the other way. Seems to have worked out fine

Stoked.

The only thing I'm concerned about is that the collar in the middle made it fairly easy to get the wheel bearings out.... now that they're pressed right up against each other it will be a royal PITA to get them out next time.... but not many options. In hindsight I shoulda bought the Timkin tappered roller bearings instead.... but I didn't know that they fit at the time.

So I have my hubs and flanges all set to go... I'll just have to bleed/adjust the brakes and throw the wheels on.... then tighten up the wheel locking nut as tight as a bastard.

More updates when i'm back on the road...

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

This works on both sides...
Bearing Race then the Bearing and then the OIl Seal
you must put the spacer in and it will have a little play.
I hope real mad sure you use excess Grease and bearing were choco block full with grease.
One thing I thing you have done wrong is the Tapered Washer (going by your picture) goes between the flange and the castle nut.

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

No Gafmo, the washer with taper inside (on drum brakes) goes outside the bearing, inside the oil seal. The one under the castle nut on these is flat.

Some ball bearings these days have projections on them and don't use a spacer.

I hate these current design ball bearings, so like Madmat I only use Timkens tapered rollers now. Not much dearer, last at least twice as long, and they only fit in one way..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Scratching my head now........I'v only Used the roller Bearging Timkens myself

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It