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 Post subject: Clutch questions
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:51 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Can you tell by looking if the clutch is r**ted? I can't drive the Mini at the mo as I am rewiring it and there is a million things that I keep finding as I go along - but the clutch lever stop was screwed way out so is it possible there is something wrong in there? And how can I tell?


David L


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:54 pm 
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I can't think of a way to visually inspect the actual clutch short of dismantling it to some extent. However, you can check for wear in the clutch arm, clevis pins etc (all the 'external' parts of the clutch basically). If the clutch stop is all the way out then it is more likely caused by excess wear in the arm/pins etc than within the clutch itself. Remember, a small amount of wear in the arm can result in large amounts of free play on the clutch pedal.

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Anto.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:29 pm 
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you can see if it engages, get a few mate to push you around the street and let the clutch out. if it doesn't change it there is no clutch left. If your mates suddenly all run into the back of the mini with a loud thud and lots of curses, there is a clutch, still no way to tell until you drive it. But funny as hell to see your mates falling all over themselves in pain!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:31 pm 
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Yeah I know the feeling, from the point of view of the pusher and the pushee! Unfortunately Minis have sharp bits that hurt when you accidently head butt them :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:39 pm 
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If it's been off the road as long as yours has (like my 850...) I'd pull the clutch apart and probably replace the clutch plate and the release bearing, maybe clutch arm too.
Don't be surprised to find plate's stuck to the flywheel- mine was, after sitting 8 years! :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:41 pm 
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Can I pull it out in car or do I have to pull the engine?

David L


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:45 pm 
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I believe it can be done in car, but I would take the motor out. That way it is a lot easier to work on, and you can replace the oil pump, timing chain etc whilst you're at it.

A lot of things can be done with the engine in the car (cam changes for eg), but it is always less back breaking to pull the motor out. If I had a hoist always handy, I'd take the motor out to change the points, but then maybe that's just me :)

Anto.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:02 pm 
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You can also give the motor a nice shiny coat of `reconditioning enamel' if not done already. :wink:

Mine's sitting on the garage floor, ready to drop in- I start it every 6 months to scare the hell out of the spiders.. :twisted:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:47 pm 
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Gee, doesnt it make ya wish Mini's were RWD???? But I love em too much, so they're worth the extra effort.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:51 pm 
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I had a bloody Fiat 124S that I towed a boat with. Putting a clutch in, even with use of a pit, took most of a day... :x Tailshaft (2 pc) was half the problem. Remember rotoflex couplings? :twisted:
Stuff the RWDs.... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:59 pm 
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PhildoD wrote:
Gee, doesnt it make ya wish Mini's were RWD???? But I love em too much, so they're worth the extra effort.
?????
I can change the clutch in a mini in 1hour without pulling the motor out. Try that with your RWD!


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 Post subject: 124S
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 9:09 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I had a bloody Fiat 124S that I towed a boat with. Putting a clutch in, even with use of a pit, took most of a day... :x Tailshaft (2 pc) was half the problem. Remember rotoflex couplings? :twisted:
Stuff the RWDs.... :wink:


Early 124S - "pritty car" (using an accent just like in Italian Job)

Later 124............not so pritty car.... :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 9:15 pm 
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RWD clutch? Not hard at all.
Drop the rear end of the drive shaft.
Ratchet the Bellhousing bolts off, undo the G/box mount. Slide the box back, undo the pressure plate. Bring the box back until the friction plate drops out. Place new friction plate in, and push the box back forward so the input shaft lines it up. Tighten the pressure plate. Mount G/box onto the engine. Fit G/box mount. Install tailshaft. Drive the car off the hoist. Get out of smashed car. Drop the hoist. Take car to panel beaters. EASY :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 9:19 pm 
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It took ages to do the clutch on my brothers Bommodore. Damn big-arsed extractors got in the way of gearbox removal. A lot of beer was consumed before that job was done. Then, as fate would have it, the slave cylinder couldn't cope with the up-rated clutch and packed-in. Bloody Holden build quality.....

Anto.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 9:19 pm 
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There are some RWD cars that you have to pull the engine to change a clutch or gearbox.


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