Hey guys just got a rebuild on my 1100, got a bit of performance stuff done too. was just wondering how long or how many km's would be a good guideline to say that it is fully run in?

800-1000 k's will do it no worries, then change the oil & filter.

Doogie

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

sweet thanks for the help

Drive it like you stole it...

_________________

*Reasonable pricing
*I come to you..
Jay: 0431404607

"Run em in fast, they stay fast.
Run em in slow, they'll never go".
What Doogie said, but I'd dump the oil and filter at 300-400K.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Everyone used to say the opposite but a few mates in the trade tell me the same thing now. Drive it like you stole it!

_________________
Noli Illegitimi Carborundum

far out hey Serious I always herd to just run it in slowly let things seat in and get settled.

so how exactly DO you drive em when running in??? I've never done one before.

Like I said the conventional way (and no doubt the safest) is realllll slow. But now,possibly because of modern machinery making better parts (just my theory) many engine builders when tell you that if you want it to go fast run it in fast.Many respected names on Ausmini will say the same.

_________________
Noli Illegitimi Carborundum

When I picked up my engine from GR he told me run the engine hard (ish) from the start. He particulary told me not to start it and let it idle for 20 minutes while adjusting carbs etcs as this will glaze the bores.

Apparently this has happened before and sometimes requires a re-hone to fix the glaze. Either this or a good run on the dyno!

regards

_________________
Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

From all the guys I have spoken to and articles I can find, putting load on a new engine is critical AND so is choice of oil.
Read this=>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

_________________
1964 Cooper UK 970 S 'CZ 4289'

When i ran the engine in, in my Cooper S in september, i got about 30k's on it driving round locally, then i took a early morning blast to Bathurst, up over the Blue Mountains is good with all the hills so you can really load the engine up, on some hills i was even pulling the handbrake on to strain it a bit harder.

I only got about 600k's on mine before dumping the oil & then i was straight into a motorkhana & giving it big revs, alls good with it.

Doogie

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

same as above.... don't stay at the same revs for a long time, use the whole rev range, go up steep hills in top gear, let it work hard, but don't rev the crapper out of it (5000 rpm is plenty)

I rebuilt mine in April, got it driving on the Tuesday ready for a motorkhana the following Sunday, rocked up with a couple of hundred miles on it, but the khana was cancelled

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks heaps for everyones input its really helped me out ill go give her a work out tomorrow

This is something I have been thinking about for a while, how do you get the carby running right for the engine straight up?
If it's to lean you could do more damage that good taking it out straight away and "running it in".
Do you time the dizzy statically and take a guess with the carby? Or do you get a colour tune and spend a few mins getting it right?