Hi All,

Just bought my first mini - a 71 Clubman - see thread http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58268

Have a couple of mechanical issues was hoping for some help in diagnosing.

First off, having some problems with crunching gears. This occurs mainly when I stop at the lights, getting it back into first (or anything else for that matter) is sometimes a struggle and other times impossible and I end up having to "crunch" it into place to get going. When moving I dont really have any issues although to change from 1st to 2nd is often a push, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th are usually quite smooth. I plan on getting it checked out soon but just wanted to get a view from everyone on what possible cause would be. I am assuming obviously the clutch is on its way out or already pretty much gone. Is there any other possible explanation?

Second isnt so much an issue but just need some clarification - the car is running on hydro and im finding the ride extremely hard. Going over small bumps creates quite a jolt and I swear the car has got air over a couple of ripples in the road which surely shouldnt be happening. I am by no means driving quickly or recklessly either, just 60kms down the main street where I live. I guess Ill be looking to get the hydro serviced and see if this resolves the issue but again just seeing if anybody has any other ideas.

Thanks for your help!
Josh.

ok if u have hydro it prob needs to be pumped up and with the gear trouble it could mean ya clutch might just need adjusting but take it to some one who works on minis to get the job done right

1. Clutch is not disengaging properly. Could just be a matter of adjusting the stop bolt, but if you pump the clutch and it works better then your clutch hydraulics could need bleeding and possibly refurbishment/replacement.

2. Sounds like the hydrolastic pressure is low & you are riding on the bump stops. It does look a little low in the pohotos. Get it pumped up ASAP. Hopefully it will stay up & you will have a much better ride.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have played around with the clutch stop bolt but it hasnt made any difference to the issue. The clutch fluid reservoir is still full and pumping the clutch doesnt help either. The car still goes but I am finding this issue to be getting worse and worse. Sometimes I have to turn off the motor, put the car in gear and start it up again and go to get off the line.

Is there anything else I can check and play with before taking it to Link Automotive (which is quite close to me). Obviously it will be a little difficult for me to do anything major so it might just be time for me to take it in...

It may be the clutch master cylinder is too small diameter, so not moving enough fluid. They are supposed to be 0.75" for trouble free operation, but some Minis got fitted with a 0.70" one. It was marginal for the application, even when all the bits were new.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Could also be a little air getting past a seal. Try bleeding the clutch to see if it gets better.

I had this problem when I got my mini. I'm quite sure bleeding the clutch line will solve it. It's the easiest thing ever to bleed.

apart from your arms when your trying to put your speedo cable on the gearbox with it in the car now thats when some easy bleeding takes place

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Just be thankful you didn't need to replace the speedo drive spindle!!!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

If you find you can't get all the air bubbles out when bleeding it, replace the seal in the slave cylinder. When they get old, they suck air in on the pedal upstroke.
Recent slave cylinders I find don't even have to be old, I've seen their seals cark it in 6 months.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks everyone, ill give it a try and let you know

Actually, try doing the clutch arm adjusting thing on the bell housing first, its even easier than bleeding. Remove the return spring, undo the lock nut and move the bolt until it has he clearance as per the workshop manual (IIRC)l.

But its a good idea to bleed it if you dont know when it was done last... i got black gunk out of mine.

I had major drama's with my slave cylinder. Couldnt get the clutch to operate properly. (Same issues as you) bled and bled it, replaced the master cyl for a new one, nothing helped. In the end, replaced the slave and bang - perfect clutch and gears.

Could have saved me lots of $$ by just doing that.

Peter

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Pristic I think you may be right.

Tried bleeding it today but did not sort the issue. Ill order a new slave cylinder, clutch arm, return spring, clevis pins etc as the current ones are looking really old and worn. Minisport has all the parts for about $200 which will be well worth it IMO.

Having a lot of fun getting my hands dirty on the mini though, getting to know more and more each day.

Don't forget to replace the rubber hose. When they get old they play up. Even when they look good on the outside they can swell up on the inside and it slows (or stops) the return of fluid when you let your foot off the clutch.
While you are doing everything else it would be a good time to change it.