Well ive got a 1098 which ive got as my first motor and im wondering what i can do to improve performance
Whats already been done so far
-lightened flywheel
-1 1/2 su on a perry extractor
- 4 pinion diff
-cooper head
- 1 3/4 exhaust
do you think this is a good combination?
Is here any thing else that can be done to make it better as a road motor/ club motorsport motor. That will not cost me an arm and a leg.

Cheers, Steve

Put a better cam in if you want real HP from a 998 or 1098.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

wat doc said, as well as electronic ignition will get better performance

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

As the doc said, the cam will make a big difference. So will the the work done to the head.

_________________
Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

How much would i be looking at for a decent cam?
Would you suggest a wade

I've used Wade, Camtech, Kent, and Russell Engineering cams.
Graham Russell seems to be the only guy out here continually improving cam grinds for Minis, and getting more and more HP and torque from them.
Many/most of the other cam grinders are still selling last century's A series cams...
If you want a killer torquey grind for a 1098 that gives max grunt to 6000 or so, you can't beat Graham's new RE83.
Ask Lindsay Seibler...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep as above specialy about the Cam. I would also Match the ports from Carb to Manifold to Head..also you don't mention what Inlet manifold your using and what modes have been done to the head

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

the head is just a cooper head, it hasnt had any head work.

Cooper head could be either a 12G202 OR 12G295???

_________________

1/3/4 in S.U. wold help

_________________
PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

its a 12g295 head. Are they the good ones?

295= Best unmodified smallbore head there is.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As mentioned above, a 1-3/4" HS6 or HIF44 carb would probably help.. I went from a single 1-1/2" HS4 to twin 1-1/4" HS2s on a Cooper S manifold and the difference above about 4,000 rpm was incredible. Twins can be difficult to get right though, so a single big carb on a good (Russell) manifold will serve you well.

If you do that, bin the Perry 3-1 extractors too. Get yourself a set of Maniflow LCBs (or even better, the Chinese copy thereof with the cast steel flanges) and you'll get another 5HP easily.

Also as mentioned, electronic ignition will probably get you a few HP back too, especially if your dizzy is a little worn or not curved for all your mods

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Get rid of the perry's and get some maniflow LCBs. I got my set s/h for $50

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

you lucky duck!! wish I could find some around @ that price I'm looking for some

_________________
Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!