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 Post subject: a little bolt help :)
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:55 am 
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1098cc
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Hi lads

bit of a silly one, im missing the rear bolts that hold the drum upto the hub

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=36738

can anyone tell me what bolt and length i need to ask for at the bolt shop?

my drums are stepped drums so do i need a particular bolt for that??


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:03 am 
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Thread is 1/4 UNF, with csk head but not sure what length, I don't have one handy.

[edit] watch people in Mini shops don't try and sell you M6 ones, I had that happen once. They do screw in (sort-of) but are loose. NBG..... :x

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:16 am 
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Inch and a half long I think.
The ones on my car are socket heads, I always found the phillips head ones annoying to get off.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:30 am 
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im tapping into a some alloy hubs so a M6 would be ok and more common


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:33 am 
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If you can get the 1/4 inch ones you'd be better off as they're the correct size to suit the drum and a finer pitch thread than metric.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:38 am 
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I hate finding metric threads on a Mini... :evil: :x :roll:
It shows people don't know, or don't care.............

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:41 am 
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The factory went metric from 1992 onwards for half the car. :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:42 am 
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lol.. yes well these hubs don't have the screw holes for the drums.

i wanted to use something common as im making the car bit light weight.

just wanted to get that bolt in titanium.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:47 am 
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Here's a weight saving tip: leave it off.
If it didn't have holes from new the manufacturer obviously intended there not to be any.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:20 am 
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These little screws do nothing really- most Jap cars have nothing holding their disc rotors on, except the 4 wheel studs/bolts!! :lol:

Hint: if the wheels come off, you have bigger probs to worry about than keeping the drums on.. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:31 pm 
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If the drums can come loose, you've got a bigger problem than two 1/4" bolts can solve.

Tim

Edit: Oops, I should read the previous messages properly. :oops:

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Last edited by Timbo on Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:31 pm 
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I luv your hints Doc :wink:
Should be more of it.. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:44 pm 
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they wont come loose..

i get the wheels hold it on..

just want it for extra security :)

im going with a Titanium bolt in m6 and lots of anti seize crap as the doc has suggested.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:11 pm 
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Read it again !

NBG is No Blardy Good!! :lol:

drmini in aust wrote:
Watch people in Mini shops don't try and sell you M6 ones, I had that happen once. They do screw in (sort-of) but are loose. NBG..... :x


:wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:28 pm 
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graham in aus wrote:
Read it again !

NBG is No Blardy Good!! :lol:

drmini in aust wrote:
Watch people in Mini shops don't try and sell you M6 ones, I had that happen once. They do screw in (sort-of) but are loose. NBG..... :x


:wink:

In this case, there are NO threads in the (alloy) hub already, so if Nick wants to tap them 6mm to suit his expensotainium bolts, good luck to him. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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