From another thread I posted in-

"Dayco Pirelli have stopped making/selling their belt, and I find the Chinese ones slightly too long = loose when fitted.

I'm running a Gates kevlar one. Good for 50K miles they say.
These are ONLY available from Mini Mania in USA, Gates here seem to know squat about them. I did ask...

See http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AJJ3328 ... evlar-Race
Freight from US is the killer, so bring a few in and sell them to the race guys.


There is another timing belt that fits, according to UK forums. It's a 195LO75, Gates p/number 9257 2222.
But not sold here, I asked that too".
Update:
I have now bought one of these Gates 195L075 belts in to try. Made in USA. It seems dimensionally the same as the usual Pirelli Dayco one, except the backing is 0.4mm thinner.
Bought from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-195-L-075 ... 0594107591
Total landed cost was USD37.46
I will take it to GR's this week and try it on a motor for tightness of fit.

[edit] Here's a pic-

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I sell new belts and seals as a kit for $50.00 posted

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

more of your Chinese made stuff Tony?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Everybody sells Chinese ones, but I'm after belts that fit properly, with a bit of tension. Like the originals.

[edit] I bought a Chinese one from Ken Nelson, it was loose on a stock (not re- align bored) block so I sent it back.
I'm not saying these don't work, but there is no tension when fitted. Not good for reliability on a road car, IMO.
Maybe OK for a couple of race meetings.


fyi Pirelli/Dayco belts were all Italian, Gates kevlar ones are Japanese (sold via MiniMania only) and the Gates 195L075 belt I bought this time is made in USA.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I Have sold many of these Chinese made Belts and I have not had one complaint. Ken Nelson buys them from me all the time. You buy others from where ever and where do you think they are made? I have no interest in importing or selling things that are not good quality or that don't work. I thank you all for your support. TK, you never bought anything off me so please don't put S#1T on what I sell.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Asking if your stuff is Chinese is no insult, and these days not necessarily an indication on quality. I bought one of your Chinese alternators that has been working like a dream. But most people appreciate knowing where parts come from.

Thank you Irish Yobbo.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

When I read it. I thought it was coming across as having a go at the quality of Tony's products, so I can understand why Tony thought as much.

I cant comment either way regarding quality as I haven't bought anything from Tony, but nearly everything you buy now days comes from there and there quality has improved markedly compared to many yrs ago.

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UPDATE:
This Gates 195L075 belt I bought is an industrial grade timing belt, not an automotive one. I cannot find any surface speed, temperature or tensile load specs for it on the web.
The tooth facing according to Gates is nylon, not polyester like automotive ones. And as I mentioned, this belt is 0.4mm thinner.
So, after hearing a horror story about how an industrial belt lunched a Ford BDA twincam motor I have decided not to use it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Keep us posted Kev, I too need to find a replacement belt soonish

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I'd bring in one of the Kevlar ones from Mini Mania. US$119.95. + postage.
Postage to Oz now is cheaper than UPS was. USPS First Class International: US$18.43

http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AJJ3328 ... evlar-Race

[edit] As your car like mine is on Club plates now you are doing hardly any miles, so why worry... My last one I changed at 25,000 miles, the previous one 40,000 miles. These were the stock Pirelli/Dayco belts. Both still look like new.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc,

I have one of these Trigger belt drive setups that has yet to be installed on my engine. I bought it 2nd hand from Barry at Northern Mini parts when Henry Draper was the owner. (not telling my age here). The kit is 2nd hand and came with a 2nd hand belt and a brand new Pirelli belt.

From your legendary experience, if one of these belts was to "fail", how would it fail? Stripped / missing teeth? Belt snap / break?

I ask in this way as I have a jap RB30 motor with a toothed belt cam drive standard that I have changed at the religious 70K km mark as per recommended replacement interval, and have noticed only the slightest of rounding of the teeth on the belts when they were removed. No cracking on the backside of the belt so to say, and if memory serves me correct, it was a gates belt too. I have pulled timing belts of that were severely cracked on the backside and definately required replacement!

Timing belts have always to my knowledge had a km time life.......what if we monitored / examined the belt, could we get away with an "on condition" belt? Depending on how you drive of course!

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

I drove twincam Fiats for over 20 years. They are hard on belts, they need replacing at 50,000 miles (~80,000km). If you don't, they do not break, they strip teeth.
Their belts were the same form as in the Triger Mini kit, but much longer.
Failure mode of trapezoidlal belts- I have never seen one break, all those I've seen fail stripped teeth around the bottom pulley when their polyester covering wore through. The teeth of these belts are just rubber, there is NO reinforcing in them.

IMO, my Mini belts still look new after big miles because there is no idler to flex the belt.

I would fit your new belt, keep the other as a spare.
Ensure there are NO bruise marks on the pulleys from fitting that can wear the belt.
I polish the crank nose so the bottom pulley is a nice neat slide on fit.
Consider changing belts at 30,000 mile intervals. or 50,000 for the kevlar one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I finally pulled the belt on my 244 (Volvo) at around 500K. Looked horrible but was stilll intact.

Volvos have (had?) non interference engines and a broken belt meant about $80 + a tow to the shop...

Cheers, Ian

These guys do a replacement belt, not sure if it would fit trigger set up

http://www.bwrperformance.com/

POWERGRIP REPLACEMENT BELTS FOR TITAN AND VERNIER UNIT ABOVE

These belts have not been available for some time. Manufactured in Japan, these high quality belts proved to be stronger than the NLA Gates belts in destruction tests.


Price: $52.50

Cheers Mal