Have had similar problems with slight leaks etc.
Most tie rods have a recess near their inner end for the boot & clamp to sit in and reduce sliding.
Boots vary in length and number of convolutions - short ones can pull the small end along the tie rod, esp with grease and oil under the rubber, but it is hard to remove the oil. You could wrap masking tape around the tie rod threads when fitting the boot to the rod.
It is hard to find small worm-drive clamps narrow enough to fit in the groove of the boot. Some clips have rolled edges - others have sharp edges that can cut into the boot. I am using the original clamps on the large ends and very small worm drive clamps on the small end.
Position the head of the clamp screw on the larger end so you can get a screwdriver to tighten it once it is in the car. You often find a slight leak over time and there are not many points of access around the body/subframe once in position - might be why some glue the boot to the rack.

Thanks for the tips Doc and Bill.
I went back to the drawing board today and removed the boots and drained the rack again. Surprising how discoloured the oil is already. The rack had been left hanging for a few days before I filled it and I'd worked the rack a few times lock to lock when trying to help the new oil go in. When I drained the oil today, it was fairly black.
The boots I'm using are some old stock ones. One I reckon might be NOS and the other looks like it may have been on a car previously but it's been in a cupboard drawer since about mid 1980's and looks in good nick. I did buy 2 new ones from Minispares and in comparison to the old ones, the new ones are a lot thinner so I'd thought I'd use the old ones.
As for the clamps - could I use stainless zip ties? I've got the plastic ones that came with the new boots so could use them as you say Doc.

I took lots of pics before I pulled everything apart and can see what position the clamps need to be in so I can access them once they're back in the car.

Re-oiling job tomorrow and I'll let you know how I go.

Thanks Rocky (aka the flying squirrel)

Maybe you need to flush out the rack before refilling...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc4IFIXcDcs

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"Show me the Mini!"

Good tip 9YaTaH.

Off to the shed now with hat in hand hoping to pull out a non-leaking steering rack.........

Before I put this back together, I'm wondering what you blokes reckon of the quality of the new boots (ex Minispares)?

Doc - in your reply you mentioned using the supplied plastic zip ties that come with them so I'm guessing you've used the same ones I've got.

I've got a pair of new ones and was going to use the old stock ones but I'm wondering if maybe they're gone a bit too firm. The compression rate of the new and old are quite different with the new ones being much softer.

Also, I notice that in the new ones, on the small end they have what looks like a thread inside them - might just be grooves. The thickness of the material that forms the end of the boot is also much thicker than the old ones which would mean a clamp / zip tie would have more rubber to squash. The actual rubber seems firmer on the new boots than the old ones too - that might help with the leak situation perhaps?

If you reckon the quality of the new ones is ok, I might use them. They don't have any makers name on them, just made in EEC.

Rocky

The boots marked EEC are the best I've ever used.
It's got grooves in there to help sealing, not a thread.
Also has reinforcement ribs in the end.
If you use an anaerobic sealant like permatex anaerobic gasket maker, or similar Loctite 515, and the cable ties, they don't leak. Only put on the big end.

Most new boots around now are Borg and Beck, in a box. Harder fit on the tierod and not as well made, IMO. But at least available.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc - I'll use the new boots then, apply sealant as you've suggested on the big end and the plastic ties that come with the kit.

Appreciate your help.

Rocky

I put the eye of a pair of pliers against the head of the tie, then use a pair of longnose pliers at an angle to pull the tie tight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc. Get them nice and tight by the sounds of it.

I also removed some extra casting from where the boot sits on both sides (not touching the lip), just to make sure what it seated on was smooth and flat. The drivers side of mine in particular had a little web.

I used a pair of boots that had been in the shed for 20yrs. Seemed fine, but turns out they were really soft and tore almost as soon as I put them in. So I got to replace the oil twice as well...

Doc, where did you source the eec ones ?

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

I got them from Karcraft but they now sell Borg and Beck ones instead.

Edit:
There are serious supply and freight problems from UK at the moment.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Andosoft,

I checked the casing where the large boot goes and it's smooth enough. Looks like someone has filed it at some stage - or it was made that way.
I got my EEC ones from Minispares (UK) late last year.

from some suppliers Doc...otherwise as per normal

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"Show me the Mini!"

Some suppliers are airfreighting parts from UK via New York...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hope they wore a mask!

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"Show me the Mini!"